glass brasserie

By Franz Scheurer

Aptly named ‘glass brasserie’ commands good views over the cityscape on one side and a peek into the busy drop-off zone between Pitt and George on the other. Designed with a broad brush using lots of glass and stainless steel, mirrors and impossibly high ceilings, the space comes together like no other modern, hard-surfaced restaurant in Sydney. Although quite large it seems intimate and the ‘personal space’ is respected. This might account for lots of high profile customers, but it might also be the attention to detail and the staff knowing the difference between a speedy business lunch and a lingering extravaganza.

John Clancy’s wine list is simply fantastic and if you let him guide you in your choice you won’t regret it. He knows his stuff. Have a look at the way the wine is stored and displayed; it’s innovative and interesting.

A superbly fitted out kitchen caters for the whims of the glass brasserie customers and there’s even a wood fired oven for those wintery dishes. A huge overhead mirror reflects the bar area straight back at the patrons, thus increasing the feeling of endless space.

The menu and the wine list are approachable and there’s something for every taste and budget. To start you might try the ‘sashimi of kingfish, wakame, leeks, pickled ginger and enoki, soy dressing and Persian feta’ or the ‘salmon gravlax, dill creme fraiche, melba toast’. The textures in the kingfish dish are alluring and the salmon is simply a terrific comfort dish. For mains I suggest you try the ‘pork belly with star anise, cucumber and pickled papaya salad’ or my favourite, the ‘lamb cutlets, confit belly, sweetbreads, cannelloni of silverbeet & pumpkin, tomato, olive jus’. Both are wonderfully crafted dishes, quite simple but totally convincing in appearance, aroma and depth of flavour. This is one place where chef obviously does try his own food and the seasoning is perfect.

Service under Rob Young’s guidance is unobtrusive, knowledgeable and affable. Value for money is surprisingly good. Luke Mangan’s touch is unmistakable, Joe Pavlovich is the hero in the kitchen and, although it might have taken a little while for this place to rock, it now does!

Score: 7.5/10

For more information or bookings:

glass brasserie

Hilton Hotel

Level 2

488 George Street

Sydney NSW 2000

Tel.: 02 9265 6068