Bodega

By Franz Scheurer

Unless you know where it is, it’s easy to miss Bodega in the traditional rag-trade backwaters of Surry Hills. Bodega is different, dares to be different and enchants being different. One lime green wall with lots of windows faces the bland streetscape, a cold dark green paint unsuccessfully tries to camouflage the very industrial, exposed air conditioning-clad ceiling and a mural of a bull adorns the back wall. Bold, brash and just as in your face as the old-fashioned light fittings, the oversize, naked bulbs on either extremity or the lime green stools. What’s quite beautiful is the bar that runs the length of the full room, providing extra seats and hiding the organised chaos behind it.

The staff is hip, efficient, friendly and ‘just right’. The majority of the clientele at lunch is female and male at night; the majority of the serving staff at lunch is male and female at night… go figure!

Two chefs run the kitchen in a harmony and efficiency that is not only rare but a joy to behold. The food, as you would expect, is coming out fast, tapas-style, appetizing and the flavours are superb. They pack a lot of taste into their morsels!

The wine list is predominantly Latin and they have a decent selection of Sherries and a great cider. Value for money is exceptional.

We are in love with their ‘Grilled Octopus with Kipfler Potato’; it’s a textural dream combination and a one hell of a mouth-filling experience. We like the simplicity of the ‘White Anchovies’, just served in olive oil (with terrific bread), love the oiliness and crunch of the ‘Spiced Lentil and Pumpkin Empanadas with Yoghurt Sauce’ and I think the ‘Morcilla with Apple and Radish Salad’ is a stroke of genius with the soft, gooey texture of the black pudding and the acidity of the julienned apple and radish. The ‘Grilled Veal Tongue with Cabbage and Beetroot Salad’ is the only dish that is flawed; the pieces are too thick, they’re watery and bland. A plate of ‘Salad of Fried Cauliflower, Chickpeas and Silverbeet’ shows off the Moorish influence and makes us forget the tongue and the ‘Zucchini and Corn Tortilla with Goats Cheese’ is so light it just about floats above the plate, where the ‘Mackerel Fingers on Garlic Toast with Calamari Ceviche’ is down to earth finger-licking good. Finish your savoury courses with the ‘BBQ beef Entraña with Chimichurri’ and you will have eaten far too much but are content having done so.

Desserts are good, my favourite has to be the ‘Cream Flan with the Fresh Figs’ (just don’t substitute the figs with unripe, boring strawberries when you run out of figs).

Bodega is fun. Bodega is about food I want to eat. Bodega is what Sydney needs! Bodega is a Sydney place worth queuing for.

Score: 7.5/10

For more information:

Bodega

216 Commonwealth Street

Surry Hills NSW 2010

Ph: 02 9212 7766

email: bodega.restaurant@gmail.com