The
Boathouse on Blackwattle Bay
By Franz Scheurer
With one of the more
interesting views of Sydney Harbour, looking across Blackwattle Bay towards
Sydney Fish Market and the Anzac Bridge, the Boathouse has a very relaxed,
quintessentially Sydney feel about it. Famous for its selection of oysters
(shucked on the premises) and the Snapper Pie, it’s an open, airy, bright and
deceptively simple space that makes you feel ‘on holidays’ even if you are a
Sydneysider.
A recent change in the kitchen prompted a visit
and we chose a weekday lunch on a beautifully sunny and wind-still day, making
the most of the view from the window table. Menu and wine list appeared
promptly, as did a little amuse gueule. We ordered a dozen mixed oysters to
share whilst perusing the menu. Very fresh, juicy and succulent, they were an
utter delight, and the Clair de Lune Bouton rock from the South Coast was my
favourite: salty, plump and creamy with echoes of kelp and iodine.
The compact menu is
an appetizing read and puts pressure on the diner to make a decision. We
ordered the ‘Coddled Egg with White Asparagus and Morel Dressing’, the
‘Cuttlefish with Udon Noodles Rice Wine Vinegar and Ink’ and ‘Penola Spring
Trout Roe with Wasabi and Potato Pancakes’. As we were in share-mode we noticed
the outstanding synergy between the three dishes. They worked in harmony and
each built the other two up. The cuttlefish is one of the more interesting
textural dishes on Sydney menus at the moment and the potato pancakes totally
addictive. The Penola roe is house-cured, marinated in soy and mirin giving it
a terrific bite and a long and lingering, salty, sea-air taste.
A mid-course of
‘Sancho crusted, seared Kingfish with Hijiki’ was simply superb.
For main course we
decided to try the ‘Snapper Pie with Smoked Tomatoes and Mashed Potato’ (25
minutes, made to order), the ‘Grilled Sea Scallops with Jerusalem Artichoke
Puree and Scented Lemon’ and the ‘Veal Fillet with Tarragon, Shimeji Mushroom
and Cabernet Vinegar Jus’. The pie, which must be the Boathouse’s signature
dish simply by its longevity, is still a wonderful dish. Hearty, robust
flavours topped with a delicate pastry. We loved the sweetness of the scallops
and the flavours in the accompaniments of the veal, however the meat was a
letdown. I don’t understand how we are still calling meat ‘veal’ that is at
best yearling. It was offered medium-rare but arrived blue and had all the
attributes of aged beef with the exception of flavour.
Martin Benn not only knows his craft but his dishes
reflect what Sydney wants to eat. His style is interesting, too. His dishes are
very subtle and the flavours build, slowly but convincingly. What at first bite
appears to be a single violin builds to a full string orchestra within the
first act. Great stuff! It’s wonderful to see that Sydney has yet another
restaurant with a view that offers terrific food.
Service was unintrusive and professional. Value for money for the food is exceptional,
but the wine list, although comprehensive, is priced beyond good value for
money.
Score: 7.5/10
For more information
or bookings:
Boathouse on
Blackwattle Bay
End of Ferry Road
Glebe
Tel.: 02 9518 9011