By Franz Scheurer
Bistro CBD has had a long and interesting history and with the arrival of Jeremy Strode it’s been renamed to bistrode CBD. I have always like Jeremy Strode’s cooking, all the way back to Pommes in Melbourne. He manages to put intense and rich flavours onto a plate and yet his food looks dainty and harmless to your girth.
bistrode CBD is a perfectly located business-crowd lunch spot, but to me it has a lot more charm at night. No longer is it geared to get food to you as quickly as possible as everyone is aware of the short time allocated to lunch, but it is a little more laid-back, quieter and not as booked out. I love the room. It’s old-worldly grandeur with its large windows and Dorian columns reminds me a little of est down the road, but with a more contemporary heart. The colour choices (or should I say lack of colour) work perfectly and the chairs and banquettes are comfortable even for a big bloke like me. The service is attentive and professional with just about the right amount of ‘distance’ and the timing of the food is perfect.
The food… that’s why you should be here!
Start the meal with a Caramelised Onion Tart or if you’re more adventurous Black Sausage, Organic Egg & Crispy Pig’s Ear Salad. One of Jeremy Strode’s gifts is that he can make both vegetarians or a carnivores happy little Vegemites. If you love umami you might find the Sardines on Toast just the right dish and you have to try the Lamb’s ‘Hearts & Minds’, a fabulous journey into the insides of a lamb. If you are a group (you need 4 people) then you simply can’t go past the Whole Five Hour Bio-dynamic Texel Lamb Shoulder & Lavender. It’s fall-apart tender, full of gelatinous morsels and it’s served with mash and sweet freshly shelled peas and zucchini flowers. A jug of jus leaves quantity up to the diner and you better be hungry as this is a huge mountain of food. It has to be one of the few dishes in this country that would make you leave both mum’s lamb roast and Tom Cruise. If you have left some space for dessert you might want to indulge in Jane’s Honey Tart & Peanut Butter Ice Cream, a gooey, impossibly sweet and slightly salty extravaganza that hold your attention with its flavours and textures.
Don’t worry if you see lots of dishes on the menu that you want to try and can’t eat them all at once; just go back and back until you have eaten them all; it’s worth it.
A terrific wine list with good choices by the glass complements Strode’s food and the best thing: Bistrode CBD is very affordable.
Would I go back again? On my way now!
Noise: 75 db
Score:
8/10
For more information and bookings:
bistrode CBD
Level One
52 King Street
Sydney
Tel.: 02 8297 瀐