By Franz Scheurer
Name of the restaurant: “billy kwong”
Chef / Owner: Kylie Kwong
Style of restaurant: Chinese Teahouse
Cooking: Chinese home style
Location: Surry Hills
Hype: Busy, noisy, dimly lit, cramped and bloody wonderful
Value for money: Absolutely excellent
Kylie Kwong never gets it wrong. She has the knack to serve exactly what the patrons crave for, at the right time in the right place. Kylie was the driving culinary force behind the successful Neil Perry restaurant “Wockpool” which never was quite the same after her departure. It didn’t take Kylie long to open a new restaurant in Surry Hills with partner Bill Granger, whom she eventually bought out.
The restaurant is quite small, packed tightly with tables and stools, low level lighting and crowded with people feasting noisily. This is probably not the right ambience for a romantic night out but if you love good food and a lively atmosphere, you will be right at home. Her food is deceptively simple but as we all know it is very hard to make simple food stand out. Flavours and textures are just right, presentation is stylish and effective and the service is friendly, fast and observant. The restaurant is always packed and as you can’t book you either need to get there early or have a couple of drinks in one of the pubs along the same street and be patient. It is worth the wait! The ever-changing menu offers a plethora of entrées and mains and fresh fruit is available as the only dessert. The way to eat there, though, is to have Kylie’s Banquet. This must be the best value degustation menu in town. Wonderful dish after fabulous dish arrive in a never-ending procession until you almost roll off your perch. To do the food and Kylie justice I suggest you get a group of about eight people together. Kylie will then serve you whatever is best on the day. Considering the quality and quantity of the food, at less than $50 a head, this is a marvellous way to eat.
Score: 7/10
For more information:
billy kwong
355 Crown Street
Surry Hills NSW 2010
02 9332 3300