bel mondo

bel mondo is about the closest Sydney has to offer architecturally to a New York loft. A terrific old-fashioned industrial space with impossibly high ceilings, a functional, steely atmosphere, livened up by a couple of very colourful and ornate settees and warmed by the starched white tablecloths and immaculately dressed waiters and waitresses. The full length, see-through drapes dividing the room will either have you in agreement or in denial.

This restaurant, was buzzy, alive and kicking when the Manfredi family first opened it, with an air of excitement, and although it was expensive, one could overlook that In order to be 'part of the scene'.

Now however it feels a bit as if Elvis has left the building. There is a slightly neglected, worn-out feel about the place, the ‘anti-bar’ looks empty and forlorn and the buzz has left with Elvis.

The food is Italian accented with a twist of Mod Oz and the clientele looks to be mostly tourists. The menu is quite interesting and sounds appetising with something for every taste. The wine list is appropriate but prices are still high, and value for money is not good.

The food is competent, the service is friendly and quite efficient, but the whole place lacks passion and direction.

Although, with the departure of the Manfredi family, prices have come down a little, so, it seems to me, has the innovation in the food.  This used to be a 'must' place for foodies or people who wanted to 'be seen'; now it strikes me now as a space that tries hard to remember its former glory. Better left to the tourists…

Score: 5.5/10

bel mondo

Level 3

Argyle Department Store

12-24 Argyle Street

The Rocks NSW 2000

Phone +61 2 9241 3700