Aperitif
By Franz Scheurer
Hidden in a little side street behind the hubbub of the Cross, Aperitif is a small refuge for the seriously discerning drinker and fussy foodie.
Low lighting, warm colours and friendly staff immediately make you forget the day’s worries and when you’re ready for an aperitif you’ll notice with glee that Charles Leong’s drinks list is true to the name of the restaurant. It’s easy to think you’re in Europe whilst you sip your Gentiane Deribaucourt and propose a toast to the art of living to your friends dinking aperitifs as diverse as Bertrand’s Amèr Bière, Jean Boyer’s Pastis, Pinneau de Charentes from Normandy and Floc de Gascogne from the Ferme de Labouc or a Lillet Rouge. It might be ‘welcome home’ for many of the Europeans and it should be a hearty welcome to something new and exciting for everyone else.
The wine list, showcasing exclusively European wines, is the best condensed list in town, and one of the most interesting, with a well chosen and appropriate digestives section as well. I adore the Jean Grivot Grand Cru Clos de Vougeot Pinot from Burgundy, one of the great Pinot Noirs of the world. This is one place that installs very elegant hangovers indeed!
The menu is an interesting read and entices you to order lots of little things to share. Starting with terrific Chorizo ($9) we progressed to good ‘Goat’s Cheese & Olive Tapenade Croûtons’ ($5) and excellent ‘Salted Cod Croquettes’ ($15). We adored the aioli that accompanied it. The ‘Beetroot & Bastourma’ with almond vinaigrette ($15) was outstanding and the ‘Lamb Fillet Brochette Moroccan Flavours’ ($15) superbly rare and perfectly seasoned, spicy and moreish. These dishes were excellent but, if possible, it was getting even better with the ‘Snails & Sweetbreads Cassolette’ ($15) and the only large plate we ordered, the ‘Spinach & Pine Nuts Pastilla’ ($25). Sensational!
Full like the proverbial ‘goog’ we couldn’t pass up the ‘Chi Chi with Chocolate Sauce’ ($12) kind of misshapen churros but better.
It was great to see that ‘Grain Fed Aged Onglet Steak grilled with Jus Corsé’ was still on the menu, now as a ‘Plats pour Deux’ ($48) served with the traditional, sweet shallot sauce. Onglet (the French name) is also called hangers steak or butcher’s tenderloin and it is the part of the diaphragm muscle that hangs down between the last rib and the loin, a grainy, strongly flavoured piece of meat (not unlike skirt steak). You may have to twist your butcher’s arm if you want some for home, as it is unfortunately mainly minced in Australia. It’s a fabulous cut of beef.
Aperitif’s food is absolutely fantastic with a wine list to match and a great list of aperitifs and digestives. I seriously don’t know why I don’t eat there more often! Service is superb, attentive and knowledgeable. Value for money is excellent (although you can make a serious dent in your budget if you get carried away by the wines) and although it might be a little more casual, this is one of Sydney’s best restaurants (and it opens late). If you haven’t tried it, then you must, and soon.
Congratulations to Charles Leong and Elie Griplas – Sydney owes you one!
Score: 8.5/10
For more information or bookings:
Aperitif
7 Kellett Street
Kings Cross NSW 2011
Tel.: 02 9357 4729