By Franz Scheurer
Alio Restaurant + Bar maybe at the “wrong” end of town but this place is on the right side of your palate. The first thing you notice when you walk in is the stark interior, held together by strong colours and geometric designs. The bar commands your attention and the dining space is Sydney through and through. The tables are widely spaced, big and serviceable, the tableware good and the chairs superb. The banquette looks uncomfortable and makes you sit very upright, but actually works rather well. The high tech interior, although a terrific look, is rather conducive to noise, though. This is not a place for a first date!
But all of this plays second fiddle to the food. Modern Italian would best describe the style and both the menu and the wine list are full of “must haves”. They also offer a six-course degustation menu, served from Monday to Thursday.
We start with a light “Buffalo mozzarella with baked eggplant” which is held together beautifully by a tomato dice and balsamic vinegar. The eggplant is perfectly caramelised and the mozzarella is very fresh. The “Grilled squid with red chilli and rocket” presents well and tastes as good as it looks. The chilli hit is minor and the squid is tender enough.
I rarely order a risotto in a restaurant, as I am always disappointed, but I couldn’t resist the “Saffron risotto” (allow 20 minutes). It was perfect: Venetian style, creamy, rich and perfectly seasoned. Anyone who dares to make a risotto as simple as this and gets it right has to be commended!
The “Fresh linguine with chilli, anchovy, white wine and garlic” was served with toasted breadcrumbs on top. All pasta is made in-house and is first class. This dish is simply gorgeous. The “Roasted lamb rump with ratatouille” perfectly cooked to order and shines in its simplicity. The quality of the lamb is excellent and full of flavour. The “Grilled pork cutlets with roasted fennel and salsa verde” is a study in contrasting textures and deep, lingering aromas but the quality of the meat isn’t quite up to the rest of the meal.
Note that all side dishes, including bread, are charged separately and you have to remember to order them. The bread, however, is the best foccachio I’ve tasted, topped with herbs, made with olive oil and the ultra thin cheese grissini complement it perfectly. Desserts, so often the downfall of a restaurant, shine. The “Panne cotta with cumquat marmalade” is plump and just holding together, the “Poached pear with zabaglione ice cream” spicy and still with some bite and the “Apple tarte tatin” the best I have eaten in a very long time.
Service, although friendly, can be a bit erratic and the wine service is non-existent. The wine list is short and sweet and value for money is good.
Score 7.5/10
For more information or bookings:
Alio Restaurant + Bar
5 Baptist Street
Surry Hills NSW 2010
Tel.: 8394 9368