By Franz Scheurer
Situated in the small but vibrant business sector of
Nelson Bay, a resort/retirement township north of Newcastle, Zest is a culinary
oasis in a quality-food starved area.
You are immediately at ease when you walk into the
restaurant. Although the look is modern the feel is cosy. A dark green wall on
the right meets a mid-green carpet, with the theme continued on the other side
of the room with a light green wall. Dark wooden tables, comfortable chairs,
clever lighting, perfect music and superb local artwork on the wall complete
the main room with a funky lounge area and semi private dining room at the
other end, near the open kitchen. This restaurant would not look out of place
in Paris, New York or Sydney.
The menu sounds promising and the food is excellent.
The ‘Twice baked Goats Cheese Soufflé with a Walnut Sauce’ is light, full of
cheesy flavour without being too strong and the taste and texture of the walnut
sauce a stroke of genius. A dish of ‘Pan seared Sea Scallops with Ravioli of
Slow Cooked Pork Belly, Ginger & Soy Beurre Blanc’ is beautifully presented
with a plump, sweet scallop sitting on top of the ravioli surrounded by the
sauce. Flavours are earthy and the slightly ‘resistant to bite’ pasta contrasts
well with the softness of the scallop. The ‘Farmed Rabbit wrapped in Prosciutto
with Globe Artichokes, Fennel, Tomato, Feves with a Warm Italian Dressing’, is
Italian poetry on a plate. The meat is stuffed with Ligurian olives and parsley
then tightly wrapped in prosciutto. Crisp on the outside, juicy, meaty on the
inside, this is rabbit cooked to perfection. The artichoke and a piece of
braised fennel ground the dish with their earthy flavours and the tiny broad
beans brighten it up.
The clientele is ‘mature’ and would probably
remember the days of Gueridon cooking. We can’t resist the call of the past and
order the ‘Crepes Suzette, thin pancakes warmed in an Orange & Grand
Marnier Sauce with an Orange Blossom Cream’ and they’re fabulous. Sadly, they
aren’t prepared table-side, but this modern take on a classic dish, served
topped with Iranian fairy floss, works a treat.
Chef Glenn Thompson trained under Serge Dansereau at
the Regent and he’s obviously learnt a thing or two!
Service is friendly, attentive and professional.
Nothing is too much trouble. Value for money is good and the wine list is much
better than expected, with a reasonable selection by the glass. This is a
seriously good eatery that would easily be competitive in the ‘big smoke’ and
is a real find in the country.
Keep up the good work!
Score: 7.5/10
For more information or bookings:
Zest Restaurant
16 Stockton Street
Nelson Bay
Tel.: 02 4984 2211