By Franz Scheurer
With a colour scheme like a modern sports bike on steroids, this Chinese restaurant in Crows Nest serves some of Sydney’s freshest and best seafood. Select it live from one of the many tanks or if you do not like to make the acquaintance of your food first, ask the staff to recommend what’s fresh on the day.
The ‘Stir-fried Pippies in XO sauce” are superb and the ‘West Australian Marron’ is still jumping and wonderfully spicy without being too hot. A curious blend of home cooking, like the ‘Seafood omelette’ or the “Whole snapper steamed with ginger and shallots”, and Chinese haute cuisine means that regardless what kind of mood you’re in you will find something appealing.
Sitting at my table I’m staring at a lone diner in front of me. This Dalai Lama look alike is just demolishing his seventh dish, neatly stacking the leftovers in plastic containers, obviously preferring to eat a variety of dishes and take leftover food home, rather than being bored by the ritual of nourishment. I thoroughly approve. The same guest, however, also simply throws the bones on the floor, a custom seldom seen in Australia.
Both of us are in turn watched by the 7 ½ kg Alaskan Crab in a tank nearby. He is fairly safe… for the moment!
The clientele is mainly Asian and most are greeted like long lost friends, obviously being regular patrons. Observing the crowd you notice an assured knowledge and competence, menus are hardly even glanced at. These clients either know what they like or trust the restaurant to feed them.
Today I am here to sample the lunchtime Yum Cha. A small menu is offered if you arrive at noon, but as the place fills up, trolleys are wheeled past the tables for you to make your selections. The ‘Wor Tip’ (pot sticker dumplings) are good, perfectly steamed as they are fried and the Low Buck Go (turnip pudding) beautifully crisp on the outside with a meltingly, buttery inside. Outstanding! The ‘Ngau Tao’ (tripe in black bean sauce) which turns out to be steamed tripe with lots of ginger and green onion juice, is succulent and cleansing but the ‘Phong Jau’ (chicken feet) are re-heated and soggy, although they still have plenty of flavour. One of my favourite morsels is simply called ‘Seafood dumpling’ steamed, filled with cos lettuce, prawn and scallop meat, is has a rarely encountered elegance.
Service is on the slow side and somewhat aloof. Value for money is excellent and if you love fresh seafood, this is the place to try.
Score: 6/10
For more information or bookings:
Ying’s Seafood Restaurant
270 Pacific Hwy
Crows Nest NSW 20654
Tel.: 02 9966 9181