By Franz Scheurer
The Newport Arms has been around since the 1890s when it was a popular holiday destination. These days it is as much part of the Northern beaches as the Opera House is part of Sydney city. With its sweeping views of Pittwater, looking across to Bayview this is the place to be on a sunny day. Most of the patrons will make use of the outdoor area and the bars and the place always reminds me just how lucky we are to live in this environment.
Upstairs, with the same magnificent views, is the Terrace Restaurant. A large glass fronted semi-circle, the room makes the most of the views. Furniture and tableware put you instantly at ease and make it clear that this is going to be a fine dining experience.
The menu is interesting and there is something for everyone: a good selection of entrées, followed by a pasta section, mains and a selection of steaks for the blue-blooded Aussie meat-lovers. The wine list offers a reasonable selection of mid-range wines at a very reasonable mark-up.
At first I am a little taken aback when I notice serious flaws in the service. We are kept waiting at the entrance just that bit too long. The specials are revealed only after we have already had time to decide what we are going to order. We need to ask what the fish of the day is and how the four kinds of oysters are prepared. One bread order never arrives and, once poured, there is no further wine service. This is the time when I realise that, despite first impressions, this is not about fine dining, this is a pub with a terrific restaurant that offers good food and friendly service in a fabulous environment. Once I come to terms with this, I start enjoying myself.
The ‘Rag Pasta with Pork Hock and Italian Sausage’ is every bit as good as it looks. Juicy and spicy, the sausage is a perfect partner to the smoky flavours of the hock and the slippery texture of the pasta. The oysters are Natural, Kilpatrick, Salsa and, a trip back in time, Mornay. The ‘Seafood Platter for Two’ is an architectural wonder and excellent value, the ‘Pork Roulade’ is interesting and the star of the show is ‘Flathead Fillets in James Boag Beer Batter with home made Tartare Sauce and Chips’.
We barely managed to fit in a couple of desserts: a beautifully dense ‘Hazelnut and Chocolate Cake’ and a terrific ‘White Chocolate Crème Brulée’. Coffee is excellent as is the value for money. Go and spend Sunday lunch there, do not get misled by the décor, accept it for what it is meant to be and you will have a ball.
Score: 6/10
For more information or bookings:
The Terrace Restaurant
2 Kalinya Street
Newport NSW 2106
Tel.: 02 9997 4900