Teppan
By Franz Scheurer
I like ivy’s space; I like the stylish, cosmopolitan informality, and the way there really is a spot within it somewhere suited to every taste. Upstairs, where Teppan recently opened its doors, is all dark, Goth-like furniture with bright splashes of colour and ultra-comfortable chairs that invite you to linger in the first big room, bathed in natural light during the day. Moving further in, to the bar area with its minimalist design, there’s a slight sense of voyeurism, enhanced by the dim lighting, as you watch staff clad in short, black kimono-style dresses moving about with the grace and purpose of a well-choreographed ballet. Service is excellent and the wine list is extensive and easily holds your attention. There are some top flight (and top price) wines on the list, but they represent value for money and there’s a very good selection by the glass, as well as sake and beer, which will work well with Teppan’s pan-Asian menu.
Despite the name, this is not your typical Japanese restaurant. Malaysian, Indonesian and Chinese influences sneak in and make their presence felt. The menu is divided into dishes from ‘the kitchen’, ‘the teppan grill’ and ‘the wok’ and they are all very different in texture. Start with some ‘Edamame’, fresh soybean pods served warm and heavily salted, and Teppan’s take on ‘White Bait’ ($12), shallow-fried with shichimi seasoning & yuzu mayonnaise, crunchy, savoury and very moreish indeed! ‘Miso Jewfish’ ($29), might be a take on a venerable Japanese classic, but it’s done rather differently here. Not marinated for hours, just freshly steamed fillet crusted with miso & served with cucumber ribbons & yuzu pickled chrysanthemum petals. It looks as good as it tastes, fresh, salty and full of the flavours of the sea. ‘Tuna Tempura Roll’ ($ 23) is outstanding, a riceless nori roll filled with finely chopped tuna & asparagus fried in a light tempura batter & served with spicy miso; it’s texturally superb with the thinnest of crusts and some real fleshy substance without being heavy. I must admit I could eat this again and again. Vegetarian or not, you must try the ‘ivy Teppan Salad’ ($11), freshly tossed crisp salad greens, radish, baby beetroot, chervil & yuzu kosho dressing. Protein lovers will enjoy ‘Duck Breast’ ($36), confited with wok-tossed shiitake, fennel & ginger and hijiki jus, or ‘Wagyu Strip-loin 100g’ ($57), Oakleigh Ranch beef (marble score 9+) with wok-tossed mushroom, buckwheat & edamame. My favourite dish, ‘Crystal Bay Prawns’ ($25), lightly stir-fried with asparagus, mushrooms & jalapeño dressing, was the perfect balance of hot, sweet, sour and salty and the prawns were beautifully glassy and fresh.
I like the space, I like the service and I like the ‘homely’ food, nothing is so cutting edge that it makes me go WOW, but everything is good and a pleasure to eat. It’s the perfect place to relax with friends over a meal and some good wine.
Score: 7/10
For more information or bookings:
Teppanyaki
330 George St
Sydney 2000
Enquiries: 9240 3000