By Franz Scheurer
The first time I ate at Tabou was to celebrate Bastille Day. The set menu gave a multiple choice of entrees, mains and desserts at a very reasonable price.
They earned points when they not only knew what I was talking about, but actually stocked “Ricard”, my preferred apéritif. They lost points big time when they had no idea who ordered which dish for any of the courses throughout the dinner. Hey, fellas, it isn’t that hard! We were only a table of five! The food was good although hardly inspiring. The pheasant dry and boring, the rabbit not much better and desserts a let down. The live music, although probably a bit too loud, was entertaining and very French. Service, apart from the meal confusion, was friendly and efficient. Our first bottle of red was ever so slightly corked: just enough for me to notice, knowing the wine. It tasted flat and lifeless. When I complained the waitress smelled the wine, got a second opinion from behind the bar and returned to tell me that they disagreed with me. So I asked for a second bottle to be opened, which I would happily pay for. The difference was like day and night and offering a taste to the waitress (and the second opinion behind the bar) they agreed with me and didn’t charge me for the first bottle. Again, top marks! The space is French bistro, warm and inviting, and I think I prefer the upstairs room, which gives the illusion of more space.
My second visit painted an altogether different picture. The menu was inspiring and the food excellent. The “Twice baked Gruyère and goats cheese soufflé” wonderfully light and flavoursome and the “Warm tomato and basil tart” excellent, using great pastry. The “Warm goats cheese on a potato rosti with pickled beets” a marriage of good textures, the cheese being reasonably aged but not too strong and offset by the pickled beets. The “Toulouse cassoulet” although not made in a baker’s oven was outstanding. Full of depth, flavours and contrasting textures it was only overshadowed by a side dish of fantastic green beans with fresh minced garlic. They were such an outstanding dish that we ordered a second plate. The “Tart tatin” we ordered for dessert was an apple pie with soggy pastry and caramel poured over the top. It wasn’t bad, but hardly a tart tatin. The wine list showed an appropriate selection of French and Australian wines and a great choice of 375ml bottles and wines by the glass. The service was very friendly and casual and they still had no idea who ordered which dish. Value for money was excellent and I’d happily go back for the food.
Score: 6/10
For more information or bookings:
Tabou French Restaurant
Chef: Jacob
02 9319 5682