Sean’s Panaroma

By Franz Scheurer

Overlooking North Bondi beach, this well-known diner does things a little differently. Perched underneath an apartment block with tables and chairs spilling out onto the footpath, this is a haven for the local glitterati. It’s incredibly hip and it’s packed, often turning tables three times in one evening, but there is a lovely little waiting room out the back where you can nibble on great olives and enjoy a drink while you wait for your table. The main dining room however is very noisy, unless you can shout with the best of them this is not the place for conversation (it’s a little quieter at lunch or at one of the outside tables).

The open kitchen overlooks the dining room adding a touch of theatre, and service is surprisingly agile and personable, considering the amount of people each waitperson has to deal with. Chef Sean Moran grows a lot of his own ingredients at a farm in the Blue Mountains. Everything is fresh and some of the best bread I’ve had in this town (under-proven, dense and heavy) is served with house-churned organic butter. The wine list is interesting with a good selection by the glass.

The menu changes regularly reflecting local availability and Chef’s mood, all menu items are competent and some are outstanding. A fresh soup using roasted tomatoes shines like a beacon to all gastronomes, whereas the roast chook is not that good. A signature dish of sublime house-made pasta is let-down by an acid kick that would wake the dead. Salt & pepper calamari is competent, while flour-dusted, deep-fried blue swimmer crab, simply chopped into quarters, pleases those who like to handle their food.

Sean’s Panaroma is incredibly laid back. It’s pure Bondi and the huge serves represent good value for money. If you want to go for the vibe and the crowd, this is the spot. If you want to quietly enjoy yourself, and your companions’ conversation, it’s not.

Score: 7/10

For more information go to:

Sean’s Panaroma

270 Campbell Parade

Bondi Beach

Tel.: 02 9365 4924

http://www.seanspanaroma.com.au/