Saffron Restaurant

Reviewed by Tom Neal Tacker

Ballarat’s dining scene offers little in the way of excitement so when something new comes along, it’s worth making an effort to try it. Saffron has been open for nearly a year, is well positioned in Ballarat’s historic Sturt Street (in the former Bazzani’s site) and is making a subtle impact.

New owners, Krish Maharaj and Anthony Santilli have no previous experience in restaurant operations but they’re obviously committed to creating a singular dining experience. Maharaj’s IT background and Santilli’s accounting expertise have resulted in sound business practices at least. The restaurant looks good, bold colours, good glassware and comfortable seating. Efficiency tries to rule though they need professional waiters to carry off the look. Santilli is sincere and friendly but his lack of floor experience shows.

Thankfully, Krish’s mum, Satya, who at 77 runs the kitchen cooking the Fijian Indian food that she knows from her own heritage. Lending an authentic hand, her culinary guidance ensures that some dishes make a visit to Saffron more than just run of the mill.

Saffron’s menu is described as Indian Infusion, a curious mix of pan-Indian flavours with European touches. Krish tells me that Fijian Indian food belongs to no particular Indian state. Instead it’s a melange of masalas from all over India though Maharashtra does dominate to the extent that so many migrants to Fiji originally came from Mumbai.

A night’s special, Bak Choy Pakoras with Chutney ($12) is a good example Saffron’s fusion of cultures and ingredients. Four lightly fried patties full of softened bak choy were enlivened with simple fruit chutney. Crispy Calamari in lightly spiced pea flour batter with Rocket Salad and sweet Tamarind Chutney ($13) were satisfactorily tender, the batter enticingly zesty but the undressed rocket did nothing for the dish. Diced cucumber scattered among the leaves could have been turned into a much more interesting accompanying salad. An Indian Style Pumpkin, Spinach and Ricotta Ravioli with Caramelised Onion, Chilli and Garlic butter sauce ($13/$24) showed some care. Four gow-gee wrapped parcels tasted mostly of pumpkin but the butter sauce was quite good. The ginger that infused the sauce was unexpected, possibly an oversight in the kitchen, but it made a difference to an otherwise bland dish. There was no chilli to be seen and the garlic was faint at best. The un-oaked Mt Beckworth Chardonnay ($27), one of only two local wineries represented on the Brown Brothers’ dominated list, went along for the entrée ride just fine.

Another night’s special, a Traditional Indian Style Fish Curry was offered with Tomato Puree sauce or with Coconut Cream sauce ($17). We chose the former. The snapper fillets floating in an uninspiring sauce was a disappointment. A Lacha Paratha ($3) was big enough to share between at least two people but wasn’t needed to sop up what I hoped were going to be toothsomely fishy, spicy juices. The Vegetable Curry with Dahl ($17) was verging on pap food: insipid flavours and non-descript vegetables made the sort of dish best served at a retirement village. I moved it around my plate and eventually left it alone. Tamarind Infused Lamb Steaks with Pumpkin and Potato Roesties, Mushrooms, and Wilted Spinach topped with Cinnamon and Red Wine jus ($29) was replaced with lamb cutlets as the steaks went missing in the day’s delivery. Either way, this was the main dish of the night. At least there was something happening with it despite the under-cooked potato in the roestie, a surfeit of sauce that would have been better had it been further reduced and a total absence of mushrooms. The wilted spinach between the roesties was lost completely and where the cinnamon went I know not. A small serve of inferior basmati rice accompanied the mains. We also had eggplant pickle and a raita ($1.40 combined) for sides. The raita wasn’t really necessary as there wasn’t enough chilli or pepper heat in anything to require its cooling properties but the spice in the pickle livened things up a bit.

Unfortunately the wine list’s only other local, a Pondalowie Tempranillo was unavailable so I nominated the Brown Brothers Graciano ($29) instead. Its ripe berry character, spice and soft tannins made up for a lack of impact in the food.

A Death by Chocolate Pudding, Cardamom flavoured Rice Pudding with Berry Coulis and a Fruit Trifle ($14 to $12) were all pedestrian desserts despite having been made in-house. Cadbury chocolate used in the pudding didn’t inspire, the rice pudding was good though nothing to write home about. The trifle tasted of packet custard and tinned fruit. Back to the retirement village with that one...

Saffron has much potential. The owners complained to me about the local’s intolerance for innovation and big flavours. I concur only insofar as to acknowledge that some people simply don’t like heat or spice in their food. A restaurant purporting to be Indian Infusion but without spice, robs those who venture in expecting the wonders of Indian flavours. Great food is an experience sadly lacking in Ballarat’s dining scene. More boring it doesn’t need. Bold, adventurously good cooking it does. Saffron is making an effort and should be rewarded. When it gets it right, it will be applauded. In the meantime, I’ll mute my praise.

Score: 5.5/10

Saffron Restaurant

102 Sturt St.

Ballarat, VIC 3350

Tel: 03 5331 1690

Open Tuesday-Sunday

Lunch 11am to 2pm

Dinner 6pm to late