By Franz Scheurer
It always seems crowded at Five Ways in Paddington and the same goes for the Royal Bar & Grill at night. However it is a serene oasis of peace and quiet on a weekday lunch. The grey-green room with the funny paintings of elephants disappearing upstairs, dark wooden floor, black tables and wooden chairs contrasts with the cheery view over the city, and there are lots of tables on the veranda should you not be afraid of fresh air poisoning.
The menu is simple, modern pub fare, and an appealing read. Chef Keith O’Leary brings fresh Buffalo Mozzarella in once a week for his full-of-flavour Caprese Salad. Oysters are briny and succulent; O’Leary decides which oysters are best on the day and only stocks one kind. (Applause)
I couldn’t resist the ‘Herb Crumbed Lambs Brains’, crunchy-gooey morsels with a very tart Béarnaise-style sauce, and they were terrific. Whenever I see bangers and mash on a lunch menu I find that irresistible as well, here I was rewarded with terrific snags, a wonderfully textured and flavoursome tomato chutney and simple ‘smashed’ potatoes without any added cream or butter. Great dish and a very generous serve. My companion ordered the ‘Penne with Grilled Vegetables and Rocket Pesto’, a bowl of al dente pasta with perfectly char-grilled vegies and flavour aplenty.
There is a list of side dishes but with servings this generous you might not need them, we certainly didn’t. Desserts are simple and well executed: ‘Sticky Date Pudding’, ‘Crème Brulee’, ‘Flourless Chocolate Cake’ or how about ‘Caramelised Figs with Pistachio Ice Cream’.
Service is efficient with a smile, timing is good and a very appropriate wine list and good selection of beers makes sure you’re not leaving thirsty.
This is a good honest pub dining room at excellent value for money.
Score: 6/10
For more information or bookings:
The Royal Bar & Grill
237 Glenmore Road
Paddington NSW 2021
Tel.: 02 9331 2604