The River

By Franz Scheurer

Moruya on the NSW south coast is a nice, quiet town by the mighty Moruya River. The Princess Highway Bridge links the town’s two parts and The River restaurant is on the southern side overlooking the water with views of distant mountains. It is an incredibly beautiful view and they make the best of it with a large covered veranda and a few outside tables on the water’s edge.

We arrived at sunset, witnessing nature’s spectacle and even the mozzies knew to leave us alone. The menu and wine list were a good read, featuring local products (yes, even the wines).

We started with ‘House made black pudding, glazed snails, garlic puree’ and ‘Smoked local eel, potato and leek soup, horseradish cream’. Both dishes presented very well and worked. The black pudding was a little too dry but the snails were superb and the smoked eel complemented the soup beautifully. For mains we ordered the ‘Assiette of lamb’ containing a roast loin with carrot and star anise purée, hazelnut crumbed sweetbread on mash potatoes and a piece of confit shoulder, wilted spinach and Madeira shallots. We also ordered the local pan-roasted kingfish, which was cooked through and a little dry, but did have a good crisp skin, unlike farmed kingfish, the wild ones have quite a strong fishy flavour, which may not be to everyone’s taste. Full marks for using local produce though, and especially for pairing it with local wines like the Rusty Fig Albariño from Bermagui and the Doonkurra Chardonnay from Murrumbateman, proving that some Shoalhaven wines really are very good.

All the savoury courses were well executed but one word of caution to the chef: truffle oil’s been done to death – leave it out.

For deserts we tried the ‘Trio of house made sorbets and ice creams’ and a special of ‘Middle Eastern orange cake with cardamom ice cream’. The trio consisted of passionfruit sorbet, honey ice cream and chocolate sorbet. The chocolate sorbet with a hazelnut praline at the bottom was a stunner! Rarely does a chocolate sorbet work, this one was exemplary. The orange cake was exquisite and again it was the cardamom ice cream that surpassed all expectations.

Service was very well intentioned, friendly and prepared to ask the kitchen for clarification. Ambience and value for money were excellent. It is rare to eat this well outside the major cities, let’s hope it’s a sign of things to come. I have no hesitation recommending The River to anyone heading south.

Score: 7/10

For more information or bookings:

The River

16b Church Street

Moruya NSW 2437

Tel.: 02 4474 5505

http://www.therivermoruya.com.au