Every now and then, something exiting is happening
in the Sydney food scene and it grabs you, shakes you and reminds you that you
are alive.
When an ancient Chinese master chef, Mr. “Sifu” Lee
spends countless hours to teach brilliant young chef Mark Jensen new techniques
and Lap and Phuong Nguyen part with their age-old family recipes to ensure
their children’s new restaurant’s success, then the stars align for a very
happy time for the Sydney diners.
Red Lantern, just opened on Crown Street in Surry
Hills, is the place.
Red, gold and black is the theme. Polished wood
floors add extra warmth and the oriental furnishings go well with the polished
brass fans. Although space is tight, you are comfortable and the noise level is
such that you get privacy but can still hold a conversation.
The menu lists Entrées, Salads, Mains, At the Table,
Noodles, Vegetarian and Desserts. Each group has a small number of dishes and
reading the descriptions, you could easily order them all.
Whilst we were studying the menu, trying to make up
our mind, we nibbled on superbly fresh GOI CUON, soft rice paper rolled with
tiger prawns, pork, vermicelli, perilla leaves and garlic chives.
We tried the Red Lantern CHA GIO, Crisp parcels
filled with pork, chicken, glass noodles, carrots and wood ear mushrooms and
the MUC RANG MUOI, Lightly battered chilli salted squid. Both dishes excellent,
the squid first deep-fried then quickly tossed in a wok with the chilli, pepper
and salt.
Next, we devoured a BANH XEO CHAY from the
Vegetarian section, crisp rice flour crepes, filled with enoki and shitake
mushrooms, mung beans and bean sprouts, accompanied by many superbly fresh
herbs and greens. Superb!
From the “At the Table” section, we ordered a CHAO
TOM, Sugar cane wrapped in grilled prawn paste, served with steamed vermicelli,
fresh herbs and rice paper. You slice off the prawn meat, select your greens
and you roll your own. Simple and wonderful.
From the mains we could not go past the BO KHO, Beef
brisket stewed in aromatic southern spices, served with steamed rice. A
gelatinous feast of textures and lingering flavours well worth saving room for.
We never made it to the desserts, but there is
always next time.
The service is efficient, friendly and informed.
Pauline and Luke Nguyen are at hand, everywhere. Be it to recommend a dish,
advising a customer how to eat a specific dish or simply refilling your glass
at just the right time.
Value for money is excellent!
I suggest that Red Lantern is to Vietnamese food
what Longrain is to Thai food. Try it; you will be going back, again and again.
Score: 7/10
For more information or bookings:
Red Lantern
545 Crown Street
Surry Hills NSW 2010
Tel.: 02 9698 4355