By Franz Scheurer
Szechuan food is not very well represented in Sydney. Yin Li in Chinatown was the only excellent one I had found until Feng Laoban decided to sell late last year. Lucky for all of us though, there is a newcomer: Red Chilli. With an address in Dixon Street, but an entrance in Little Hay Street around the corner, it occupies an upstairs space.
Although the tableware is very ‘Chinese’ the service is much more Australian, attentive, competent and efficient. The menu is a terrific read and will put a smile on your face. Peculiar Tasting Peanuts are listed right next to Chicken Paws…
The chairs are uncomfortable, the tables an ergonomic disaster, the lighting is far too bright, there is a constant procession of inebriated young Chinese to and from the amenities and you can’t help but watch the goings on in the live fish tank where I guess they must add Viagra to keep the crustaceans happy, but none of these things matter when the food arrives.
Authentic, perfectly cooked, well presented and an absolute joy to eat. You are immediately immersed in the flavours and textures and although some dishes may look familiar they surprise with extra clarity and spice. I suggest you start your feast by assembling a dish called ‘Five Delicates’ (no, not undergarments) by selecting four cold and one hot appetiser. The home made Szechuan sausage is particularly alluring, the Ma Po Tofu a scorcher and the Green Beans with a little pork and chilli probably the best greens I have tasted in a Chinese restaurant.
The wine list is much better than expected as well and I can thoroughly recommend the Tuck’s Ridge Riesling as a perfect partner to the Szechuan spice.
Value for money is good and the overall dining experience is pleasurable.
Score: 6.5 / 10
For more information or bookings:
Red Chilli
Shop 3 / 51 Dixon Street
Chinatown
Tel.: 02 9211 8122