Pilu at Freshwater

By Franz Scheurer

Pilu at Freshwater has it all: great views, stunning location right on the beach, fabulous food and terrific wines with an outstanding selection of aperitifs and digestives. It really is one of the great Sydney restaurants, and it’s affordable and there is always parking right out the front. I admit I love it for all the above reason but I also love it because of Giovanni Pilu, Marilyn Annecchini, their friendly and professional staff and last but not least, it’s my local. Eating at Pilu at Freshwater about twice a month automatically draws your attention of what’s good or what might go wrong; much more so than a concentrated series of visits for review purposes. The one thing that impresses me most about the place is its incredible consistency. You don’t ever need to hesitate to recommend it.

The menu changes every now and then but some dishes stay on for years and this gives you a chance to reflect and compare or be adventurous, depending on your mood. The menu has just changed and I dare say it takes a brave man to change the signature Suckling Pig dish. It’s now called ‘Porcetto arrosto e salsiccia fatta da noi’, oven roasted suckling pig (with the most divine crackling!) served with a traditional farmhouse suckling pig sausage, made in house.

I only order risotto dishes when I feel masochistic but I wanted to try the ‘Risotto con calamaretti’, risotto (using Carnaroli rice) with diced Hawkesbury squid and available with or without bottarga. It was a glorious, runny mess with sublime flavours and textures. I shouldn’t have worried…

For mains I tried the ‘Lombatello di manzo, gnocco alla romana e ragu die coda di bue’, Rangers Valley hanger steak (also known as onglet steak), rubbed with porcini salt, with semolina gnocchi and braised ox tail. What a revelation! The hanger steak is quite marbled and cooked properly (and this was) it is as tasty as a skirt steak with a better texture. The deboned ox tail was succulent and presented a perfect contrast and the semolina gnocchi were easily the best I have ever tried anywhere in the world. The secret is no doubt the fact that the semolina was totally cooked out with no grainy texture. Beautifully silky and barely holding together, caramelised on both sides, it was as satisfying as a Mozart symphony.

For dessert I tried the Zabaglione with macerated strawberries. It was served in a tall glass with the top slightly caramelised (probably using a blow torch) and it was thick, not too sweet and the perfect companion to a bottle of Brachetto d’Acqui, a pink, moscato-like, low alcohol, slightly effervescent wine (Brachetto is a grape variety). It was a sensational finish to a great meal.

Despite the fact that the restaurant was packed you never get the feeling that you are neglected in any way. Timing is perfect and the bill at the end of the meal won’t send you broke.

I love Pilu at Freshwater.

Score: 8.5/10

For more information or reservations:

Pilu at Freshwater

On the Beach

Moore Road

Feshwater NSW 2096

Tel.: 02 9938 3331