Reviewed by Tom Neal Tacker
The Fitzpatrick family have made quite an impression on Geelong’s dining and wining scene. When they purchased the Pettavel property in 1988 they obviously planned to stay for the long haul. Grapes planted successfully by Swiss immigrants in the 1850s (dying out by the 1890s due to depression and shifting fortunes), gave no guarantee that new crops would adapt to the harsh conditions. But with three generations of grape growing near Mildura behind them, the Fitzpatrick clan were well aware of the benefits of patience. They also know the benefits of strategic marketing.
This is an impressive enterprise. The cellar door tasting area faces a sleek dining room that easily seats 200 diners. Glass walls open to a sea of healthy vines and the gently sloping surrounding countryside. A large kitchen garden is directly outside the far end of the dining room. If it’s possible to gain a table in this end of the long room, do so. It’s quieter with peaceful views over the nearby Shiraz vineyard.
The menu offers a degustation of sorts with a set 3-courses of entrées followed by a choice of main and choice of dessert. It is $65 for the 5-course lunch or dinner, though a wine matching degustation of more courses is available on Friday nights.
All of Pettavel’s wines are available for sampling and/or purchase by the glass to accompany the meal. There is a lengthy and appealing wine list of both domestic and international (French and Italian dominant) selections if the house wines don’t entice. I admire a winery restaurant that is brave enough to offer its competitors’ wines for sale as well as its own. We weren’t familiar with Pettavel’s wines however and chose to try the full range by the glass and as tasting samples. The wines are sourced from the vineyard outside the restaurant and other Fitzpatrick vineyards nearby.
Three very good house-baked breads were served with local olive oil and unsalted butter. A tiger prawn with nuoc mam and Asian flavours was still sweet and lightly cooked, a simple starter that set the tastebuds dancing with chilli, lime and coriander. Next were Broccolini stems with Roaring Forties blue cheese, toasted pine nuts, olive oil and lemon: deliciously uncomplicated and a winner with the 05 Evening Star Pettavel Riesling. Our adept, knowledgeable and charming waitress offered us glasses of the Pettavel Viognier and Chardonnay to taste, both adequate examples of well made wine but the Riesling was the best of the three. Finally a charcuterie plate of house-made pork and fennel terrine with locally made sopressa and prosciutto, Dijon mustard and tomato chutney came with offers of more bread. The terrine was lacking fat and pungency but the smallgoods (from an Italian butcher in Lara), were superb.
We had a Duck Confit with white beans and Chicken with Panzanella and Basil Oil for mains. Both were well executed and from quality ingredients. A lightly dressed salad of mixed greens from the garden accompanied the mains. Our angelic waitress brought a line-up of all of Pettavel’s reds to try and recommended the order in which we should drink them. Standouts were the Cabernet/Merlot and Cabernet/Petit Verdot blends.
Desserts: Blueberry Pannacotta with Peach ice cream and sable biscuit and an assortment of house made ice creams and sorbets that changes throughout the day as the kitchen is “constantly churning out new flavours” according to our waitress. She gave us a taste of the 05 Late Harvest Riesling, a very good example of a balanced dessert wine, no cloying, refreshing acidity and redolent of ripe stone fruits.
Pettavel’s total package is one of slick competence. There wasn’t a wrong step made during our long lunch. Our water glasses were constantly topped up with the house mineral water, Badoit. The site, once a vineyard run by Swiss migrants, now appears to operate like a Swiss watch. That’s not a bad concept. My only complaint is the lack of soul. The menu is careful, safe and predictable. There wasn’t a single dish on it that I haven’t had somewhere else before. Guiltily I register this criticism and blame it on exaggerated expectations. I was led to believe that Pettavel is one of the best in the region; no doubt it is but I would have preferred a touch less predictability and a touch more pizzazz from the kitchen.
6.5/10
Pettavel Winery & Restaurant
65 Pettavel Road
Waurn Ponds, VIC 3216
Tel: 03 5266 1120