By Franz Scheurer
When you review restaurants you kiss a lot of frogs, but kissing a “frog” from Mauritius rewards with food worthy of a French prince.
Chef Philipe Lebreux, of French heritage (Bretagne) but born and raised in Mauritius, is a master of terrific French country-style food. Great produce, clean and clear flavours combined with good technique, his dishes are true to region and a joy to eat.
The restaurant is a tribute to all things French. One whole wall is taken up by a mural of the Follies Bergères (with Philipe’s look-alike staring back at diners), and replicas of the Eiffel Tower and French flags seem to be everywhere. A pressed ceiling is painted dark red and the whole atmosphere is warm and cosy.
Philipe, a joyous, in-your-face host doesn’t even try to hide his thick accent, neither does the floor staff. Service is friendly and efficient, although I can’t help but notice that a table of six gorgeous young women get preferential service over everyone else. Must be a French thing…
The food is marvellous. Start with the house-made Lyonnaise sausage, served with a warm potato salad and mustard dressing, or the ‘Confit of tomato with fresh Goat’s Curd served on toast’, or be tempted by a lobe of foie gras served with Sauternes jelly and a complimentary glass of Sauternes.
Ahhh… and the snails! Plump, garlicky, sticky little suckers, full of flavour, served with still warm, crusty bread. Follow this with the fabulously tender beef cheeks, braised for five hours, and served in a deep, dark and rich sauce. Excellent!
The dish of the night however is the Crèpes Normandes, a thin, crisp, beautifully caramelised but succulent apple crèpe served with lots of Calvados. An absolute hit and worth crossing the city for.
I must admit I have not enjoyed a meal this much for a long time. Nothing pretentious, excellent value for money, terrific flavours and BYO. What more could you possibly ask for?
Score: 7.5/10
For more information or bookings:
Chez Pascal
250 Rocky Point Road, Ramsgate
Tel.: 02 9529 5444