Oscillate Wildly

By Franz Scheurer

It’s tiny, it’s always full and it’s very Newtown-chic. This converted old shop oozes charm and, although it’s cramped and noisy, it’s the local home of edgy comfort food. The clientele is an eclectic mix of academia, bohemia and foodies in search of the next culinary Mecca and is largely responsible for the ambience. People watchers will adore this place!

The first thing I notice is the service: it’s VERY casual. The front of house wears a lumberjack-style, checked shirt, flopping over a pair of pants that would not appear to be restaurant grade. But the staff is a lot more informed than first impressions might indicate and service is efficient and friendly.

Start with a ‘Duck Terrine, Purple Mustard and Pickled Pear’ and enjoy the wonderful olive bread on offer (charged separately). A terrific dish of ‘Warm Bonito, Orange Purée, Asparagus and Basil’ is next, a cube of the oily fish served on a small rectangle of Tunisian brik pastry works a treat with the tang of orange. Then progress to succulent ‘Braised Beef Cheeks with Parsnip and Pipis’, the julienned pipis add a welcome contrast to darkly flavoured meat with their briny taste. For perfect texture, try ‘Bourghul Risotto with Autumn Vegetables and Dried Gruyère’ (June’s AGP dish of the month), and don’t leave without dessert, the ‘Catalan Crème with Pear, Honey and Rosemary’ is delicious.

Timing is fast and efficient without making guests feel hurried. Even if you opt for an early seating (out by 8.15pm) the pace is perfect and it leaves you the rest of the evening to enjoy. Value for money is exceptional and the menu changes regularly taking advantage of the seasons. This is one you must try.

Score: 7/10

Oscillate Wildly

275 Australia Street

Newtown NSW 2042

Tel.: 02 9517 4700