By Franz Scheurer
Murrurundi is a beautiful little country town in the very northwest of the Hunter region. The best time to visit is in autumn when the trees are changing colour and the poplars sparkle and slowly lose their leaves in golden rainbows. It may appear a sleepy little hollow to the traveller in a hurry but full of life and character for the ones taking the time to stop and wander around.
Apart from the natural beauty of the town there is a fantastic mountain ridge with huge peaks of composite rock, pointing into the sky, like prehistoric monsters frozen in time and ready to pounce on any intruder. Walking amongst these rocky giants and climbing the “Eye of the Needle” is a stark reminder of just how insignificant a human being really is. Paradise Park lies at the foot of this natural wonder and is a great place for a picnic.
If you would rather eat in town, then I suggest you stop at the Café Telegraph in the main street. On a sunny day, you will find their courtyard, next to the creek, the best spot or snuggle up inside if the weather isn’t all that kind. The friendly and warm atmosphere is matched by the service and the food is good and quite adventurous. Another nice touch is the fact that Murrurundi Cellars is part of the Café and you are invited to walk across the courtyard to select your own wine. The selection is good, mainly Hunter, and the whites are well chilled.
Try the “Toasted Swiss Cheese, Ham and Homemade Mustard Sandwich” which rises above the ordinary simply by the quality of its ingredients. Alternatively, order the “Whitebait Fritters”, light, superbly fresh, with a tangy sauce served on the side, or feast on a plate of “Thai Chicken Curry and Rice”, which is spicy, hot and surprisingly authentic, although lacking a little in balance. The sweet, sour, salty and hot balance, such an important requirement in good Thai food, is let down by too little salt, no sour and too little sweet. Although fragrant, this curry could be improved dramatically with the addition of fishsauce, tamarind water and some palm sugar. For dessert, I suggest the “Orange Syrup Cake” which is an absolute stunner. The, I suspect, semolina-based orange cake is served hot, doused with strongly reduced alcoholic syrup and is my new favourite dessert. This cake alone would be reason enough for me to drive back up there!
Value for money is excellent, the pace leisurely, the people friendly, the food great, the choice of wines wide and varied… this is hard to beat!
With the regions natural attractions you might want to consider spending a weekend at Murrurundi. Do some bushwalking, play a game of golf at the local golf course, or simply relax in this charming country town with some good food and wine. There are a couple of local B&Bs, a couple of hotels and a motel.
Score: 6/10
For more information or bookings:
Café Telegraph and Murrurundi Cellars
155 Mayne Street - New England Hwy
Murrurundi NSW 2338
Tel.: 02 6546 6733