Ms. G’s

Restaurant Review by Franz Scheurer

Last night we had dinner with John and Merivale Hemmes at the new Ms. G’s restaurant in Potts Point. For those of you who think that this would colour my review read no further. For those who know me, read on.

Ms. G’s is Dan Hong’s baby. I had a chance to eat Hong’s food many times before, at Lotus, at the David Chang dinner and as part of TOYS. He’s an extraordinarily gifted cook with a passion for Vietnamese food, which is part of his heritage.

The building has housed many more or less successful restaurants before and has a great view over the eastern aspect of the CBD. You’d never recognise the space, though, with its current makeover. It’s funky, it’s hip, it’s young, it’s loud but it’s also offering something for most tastes. Spread out over four floors the kitchen is at the very bottom and dining spaces take up the next two levels. On the top is a fabulous bar, serving a variety of cocktails, beers, wines and sakes. It’s the perfect spot to start your journey. They serve ‘unpackaged’ and ‘packaged’ cocktails; difference being that the first variety is served in a glass and the second in a fully sealed container and you use a sharp, huge straw to pierce the top to drink it. Their various takes on Margaritas are great and my favourite has to be the ‘packaged’ Tango Jack, a clever mix of Havana Club rum, Fernet Branca, jack fruit, apricot and apple juice. They also serve ‘paddle shots’, potent little suckers served on a ‘paddle’ similar in looks to a moon-cake mould.

The table are quite small and close to each other but the chair are comfortable enough for a couple of hours. Banquettes look after more sensitive bottoms. Let the feast begin!

We started the meal with a huge plate of mixed pickles ($9) with a selection of superb ‘Bánh Mi’ ($6 each), mini burgers with crisp pork belly or chicken katsu. A ‘Ceviche of Aoraki King Salmon, Jalapeño Puree, Tiger’s Milk’ ($15) tickled our palates next and a ‘Vietnamese Steak Tartare’ ($18) toned down the heat from the ceviche and brought a lovely, sensual creaminess to the dinner. ‘Buddha’s Delight’ ($14) was a cleansing, vegetarian salad with fabulous textural elements and a definite caramelised flavour. Next we tried the ‘Prawn and Jellyfish Salad’ ($15) served with cassava crackers and it was fresh, light and its balance and flavour profile reminded me of dishes served at Darley Street Thai many years ago. ‘Fried Baby Chicken, Kimchi Mayonnaise’ ($15 half + $25 whole) put a smile on everyone’s face. Everyone loves a good deep-fried chook and this one was sensational. The by now already famous (thanks Guy!) ‘Egg Noodles with XO Sauce, Braised Duck, Soft Poached Egg’ ($16) was the dish of the night for most of us and the ‘Braised Pork Belly “Hue Style” ($24) served with konnyaku noodles, lemongrass and a chilli broth was earthy, gelatinous and moreish. The ‘Taiwanese Style Wok Fried Surf Clams with Chilli, Chorizo and Basil’ ($22) was the dish with the most complex flavours and for me it was the dish that I want to eat again and again. A ‘Crispy Spiced Tofu and Fried Eggs with Heirloom Tomatoes, Coriander and Thai Basil’ ($21) brought the spice journey back to earth and readied our palates for dessert.

As you might imagine, room was at a premium and we could only fit in a couple of desserts. The ‘Pandan Chiffon Cake, Strawberries, Coconut Sorbet’ ($12) was a work of art. Impossibly light cake, married well with the gorgeous flavours of the strawberries and the texture of the underlying tapioca pearls.

The ‘Jam Doughnut’ ($12) turned out to be a cinnamon doughnut ice cream with raspberry jelly and it was excellent.

Congratulations to chef Dan Hong for creating a restaurant that caters for serious lovers of balanced, spicy, fresh cuisine. I think it’s a great addition to the Sydney dining scene.

Service is fast, friendly and knowledgeable. The wine list is superbly put together, offering a good choice by the glass with a sense of excitement and adventure. This food is far easier matched with beer and sake, yet they manage to find a plethora of wines that work well with the food.

Parking can be a bit of a challenge so, combined with the great drinks list this is a good reason to taxi or public transport.

Noise: 90 db

Did I like it: Absolutely!

Favourite Dishes: surf clams and egg noodles with XO sauce

Favourite Drink: Yebisu beer

Score: 7.5/10

For more information and bookings:

Ms. G’s

155 Victoria Road

Potts Point

Tel.: 02 8313 1000

http://www.merivale.com.au/#/msgs/msgs