By Franz Scheurer
Mezzaluna, Italian for half moon, or the name of the cutting implement resembling a half moon with a handle at either end for easy, rocking-motion chopping, is also the name of a long established and well-known restaurant in Sydney's Potts Point district.
The low slung terracotta exterior belies the fact that this is really quite a grand space. Hugging the hill, your descend from the upstairs bar into a warm, wooden dining room, with and a well-sheltered terrace, revealing great views over the Sydney CBD. At night the view really comes to life and you can’t possibly miss the new steeples on St. Andrew’s Cathedral, pointing like two stark dead-man’s fingers into the night sky.
The Polese family introduced Sydney to Italian food more years back than I’d care to remember, with the opening of Beppi’s Restaurant, which is still going strong, after all these years. Son Marc and Beppi’s wife Norma run Mezzaluna restaurant and the solid apprenticeship and family professionalism is evident.
Tableware and settings are immaculate, the menu is a great read and the wine list shows off a passionate collection acquired over many years. The food, unashamedly Italian, shows flashes of brilliance, but even at its worst, it is flavoursome, well presented, plentiful and competent. The gnocchi are just right and the Osso Bucco is simply wonderful. The Risotto Milanese the Osso Bucco is resting on, however, is a prefab, gooey soft mess and not worthy of the rest of the food.
Floor staff, although very friendly, don’t know their product as well as they might.
We were initially told that the ‘Insalata Caprese’ didn’t use mozzarella (but bocconcini) and two wait staff were amazed to discover, once they checked with the kitchen, that the bocconcini were truly ‘mozzarella di buffalo’ made from buffalo milk (as they should be). Mixing up the drink order and the serving order of the entrées doesn’t exactly help, either.
Desserts are good, although not brilliant, and value for money is good.
Score: 5 ½ / 10
For more information or bookings:
Mezzaluna
123 Victoria Street
Potts Point
Tel.: 02 9357 1988