Manta

By Franz Scheurer

Manta’s location on Woolloomooloo’s Finger Wharf is quintessentially Sydney, with views of the CBD, Art Gallery and Mrs Macquarie’s Chair; sitting at a table on the wharf near the slowly swaying boats on a sunny day is my idea of bliss. And, since it’s recent takeover by the Truffle Group, Manta’s tables are among the finest here; it seems to have lost a lot of its ‘stiff upper lip’ and gained real culinary insight and people savvy.

The menu is seasonal, comprehensive and manageable. The wine list is exceptional; whatever style you feel like, you will find it here on a wine list that offers a great balance between the popular and the less well known. The selection by the glass is good as is the choice of aperitifs and digestives. Prices are kept reasonable and value for money is great, especially taking into consideration the professional, efficient and knowledgeable service. I like staff that don’t pretend to know it all and are happy to go and find out.

But what really makes me want to go to Manta is the food: uncomplicated, seasonal, very Sydney and full of flavour, presented in an appetizing way. I applaud that many entrées are also available as main courses. I love the ‘fritto misto of market fish, calamari, king prawn and zucchini flower’ ($27/37), a study in perfect batter and an example of why deep-fried food can be so good. A selection of appetisers ($28), makes for the perfect shared entrée with nibbles such as crunchy little pumpkin and goats cheese arancini and knock-out smoked salmon with pickled fennel, while ‘pangrattato crusted king george whiting, pan fried with caponata’ ($34) shows a terrific fish that should be on more Sydney menus. Just to check that they can cook meat as well as seafood I ordered the ‘braised lamb shank, potato gnocchi, green peas, celeriac and marjoram’ ($26/36) and not only was it good, it was finger-licking fantastic, especially sucking all that marrow out of the bone! A side dish of ‘green beans, garlic, chilli and lemon’ ($8.50) shows that they know how to cook beans, too!

Desserts are a perfect finish and we can recommend the crumble! A weekend fixed price lunch (two courses for $39 and three courses for $50) is also available. If you’re looking for a Sydney experience for out-of-town visitors or simply time-out to spoil yourself without breaking the bank, then I can thoroughly recommend Manta. It’s a fabulous experience and a hard act to follow!

Score: 8/10

For more information:

Manta

The Wharf Woolloomooloo

6 Cowper Wharf Road

Woolloomooloo NSW 2011

Tel.: 02 9332 3822