Manly Pavilion
By Franz Scheurer
After a major refurbishment Manly Pavilion opens to the public with a stunning
150-seater restaurant and bar, headed up by Manly local, David Gray as host,
and chef Jonathan Barthelmess running the burners and Grant Collins overseeing
the offerings at the bar. The wine list has been created by sommelier Michael
Watt.
Jonathan learnt a lot from his mentors, Manfredi & Kyritsis, and his ex
boss Tim Connell at Coast certainly showed him a few tricks that only a gentle,
but firm hand can achieve.
Originally built in 1933 as a dressing room for the comfort of bathers, the
heritage listed Manly Pavilion has undergone a meticulous renovation by
architects Squillace and Nicholas. The building has been restored to its
original grandeur and beauty boasting soaring ceilings, an Italian marble
terrazzo balcony and unrivalled views of Sydney harbour out to the Heads.
The setting really is gorgeous; David Gray called it Amalfi in Manly and I have
to agree with him. On a beautiful day you can sit outside or inside with all
the doors open and it really does feel like you’re in Italy.
Jonathan’s food is very good. This is what we tried:
We started with some Oysters: a selection from the growers in peak condition. They
had the choice of two Sydney Rocks and one Pacific. We chose the Pacific from
Coffin Bay and they were succulent and briny.
An appetizer of Mozzarella di bufala grilled on a
lemon leaf with extra virgin oil followed and it was superb in its utter
simplicity, letting the produce speak for itself. White anchovy herb crumbed
with tomato aioli were too astringent for my palate but the rest of the table
seemed to enjoy them. A dish of Dandelion salad, crisp pig’s tail and toasted
bread was a wonderful play on textures (the pig’s tail was cooked, deboned,
flattened then crisped to order) and tasted fantastic. I have tried Jonathan’s homemade
salami and it’s amazing, so I expect the mixture of Italian style cured meats
with pickled vegetables to be just as good.
The Bucatini all’Amatriciana Pino’s
guinciale, tomatoes, chilli and parsley looked terrific and were cooked
perfectly al dente and the Pea and ricotta gnocchi, nettle butter, parsley and
mud crab was a stroke of genius. I would like to see the butter a little darker
but apart from that this was a total winner.
Pan-fried fillets of whiting wrapped in lardo, with cannellini, broad
beans and warm tomato vinaigrette was next and everyone simply adored this
dish. We had some baby vegetables and
crisp roasted potatoes with rosemary and garlic as sides. Jonathan’s signature Pepper
Risotto: Acquerello carnaroli rice, sage and Taleggio cheese (30 mins), is also
on the menu and although we did not order it on the day I have had it a couple
of times when he was at Coast and it’s a sensational dish. Cooked to order it
is probably one the best two risotto in town, only challenged by Alessandro
Pavoni’s at Ormeggio.
For dessert we chose the Rice buddino, macerated fig
and toasted farro gelato, the Italian meringue with grape musk and mascarpone
cream, the Chocolate cookie, peanut caramel ice cream and finally the Cocoa
ravioli honey Gorgonzola piccante. All very competent with the rice pudding
being the stand-out.
The wine list is excellent with a superb choice of
wines by the glass and the service is amazingly together taking into
consideration that we ate there on their 7th day. It can only get
better. If you can get there early and try some of their cocktails I suggest
you do that, as they know what they’re doing and are very big on presentation.
Noise: 68 db
Did I like it: loved it; glorious setting, great food and service
Value for money: good
Would I go back: absolutely
Score: 8/10
Manly Pavilion
West Esplanade, corner Commonwealth Parade
Manly
For bookings please call: 02 9949 9011
Opening Times
Manly Pavilion is open for lunch and dinner seven days a week
Furthermore the bar menu is available between 3 - 6pm daily
