Longrain

By Franz Scheurer (Re-reviewed: August 2005)

Longrain has been the darling of the hip set for longer than most other establishments frequented by this fickle clientele known for its lack of loyalty and tendency for flightiness and boredom.

It is probably the bar area of the 100 year old converted warehouse with its fishbowl design, and the converted industrial décor with its unfinished wooden beams and ceilings, that appeals. The communal table is an interesting way to eat, although not to everyone’s liking, and works, as long as you are not there for a romantic meal! There is a second bar space running down the side of the dining room and, half hidden behind a lattice wall, a small, semi-private room for about twenty people.

The bar area is jumping most nights (and most lunch times, too), uncomfortably so on Friday nights (for us more sedate folks, anyway). The guys behind the bar know their business and the selection of spirits is excellent.

The menu offers a good variety of dishes and the wine list is appropriate and innovative. Service is friendly, fast and informed.  The impossibly high ceilings help to create a good ambience with an almost Japanese architectural feel, although I find the chairs a little uncomfortable.

Martin Boetz cooks modern, approachable Thai(ish) food. The dishes are well presented, incorporating huge servings of protein with lots of garnish. Thai food is all about balance between hot, sour, sweet and salty. The food at Longrain is a very modern interpretation of the classic Thai way, the heat is toned down and the sweetness is turned up. Unfortunately, regardless of the combination of dishes you order, a perfect harmony of flavours cannot be achieved, as the sweetness is all prevailing. This does not seem to bother the majority of customers though.

If bums on seats are any indication, then it is obvious that Martin and his crew have hit on a winning formula.

Score: 6/10

For more information:

Longrain

85 Commonwealth Street

Surry Hills

Tel.: 02 9280 2888