By Franz Scheurer
Clichés like Lederhosen, Jäger Tea, Yodelling and Alphorns immediately spring to mind when you enter the hunting trophy adorned Kaiser Stubn restaurant in Terrey Hills. Kaiser Stubn translates loosely as the emperor’s living room and I reckon any emperor would love the food here.
Owned and run by Robert Baier from Austria and his wife Barbara from Switzerland this ever so European restaurant with its chintzy curtains, knick knacks and lots of wood immediately makes you feel comfortable, the illusion of being in the Alps is so strong you keep glancing out the windows to spot that snow covered mountain peak.
The menu is in German with English translations and mirrors the couple’s heritage. Knödel, Spätzle, Sauerbraten, Eisbein, Bäuscherl, Schwarzwälder Schinken with Käse Salat and a selection of cured meats served in a wheel barrow make it clear that this is a carnivore’s idea of heaven. There is always one vegetarian dish on the menu, and the size of the portions is more than plentiful!
Robert is a caring chef. The produce is excellent and the preparation traditional and masterful. His roast duck with red cabbage is so succulent you will never forget it and the taste of the Austrian meat dumplings’ just goes on and on. This is the only restaurant in Australia where I have ever tasted Sauerkraut the way it should taste. The secret is in the balance of sour and sweet and it is important that the sweetness is introduced by caramelising the Sauerkraut during the cooking process, not by adding sugar. Desserts are comfort food to the extreme. Hot, sweet dumplings or pancakes filled with fruit complement soft-textured ice creams, with the cinnamon ice cream being my favourite.
Service is fresh, friendly, efficient and knowledgeable. Wait staff is predominantly Austrian with a perfect command of English and a natural knowledge of the cuisine, so they’re great at advising and describing dishes in more detail.
A large number of Austrian and German beers and wines are available, as is a reasonable selection of Australian beverages.
Value for money is exceptional; in fact, I do not know how they do it!
There are other continental restaurants in Sydney but none reach the level of excellence you encounter here.
Score: 7/10
For more information or bookings:
Kaiser Stubn
205 Mona Vale Road, Cnr of McCarr’s Creek Road
Terrey Hills
02 9450 0300