Jimmy Liks

By Franz Scheurer

Jimmy Liks is an oasis of good food in the middle of Kings Cross Back Packer territory. If you like a frenetic pace, waiting in line and communal tables you’ll feel right at home here. The long, narrow restaurant consists of a series of long tables with benches for the punters, a feature wall behind and a white, red and gold double curtain that hangs from the ceiling for the full length of the room, concealing the lights and cleverly illuminating the whole restaurant. The atmosphere is definitely Asian and the benches are comfortable and, despite the hustle and bustle, it is possible to hold a conversation if you are sitting next to your dining companion. Mind you, conversational skills you will need aplenty as the service can be frustratingly slow. The staff is quite happy resetting the table for the next lot of diners instead of clearing the dirty plates of diners who have obviously finished. This can go on for a long time and detracts from the terrific food.

I was surprised by the level of understanding of South East Asian food and the Thai-cuisine specific balance in the dishes served. ‘smoked eel betel leaf with shrimp galangal & chilli’ was the perfect starter and the ‘salt & pepper cuttlefish with Vietnamese dipping sauce’ a textural feast with an acidic dipping sauce that worked in perfect harmony with the ‘crispy pork hock with tamarind & blood plum sauce & nahm prik’, which was sweet, crisp and gooey with a slightly bitter nahm prik. All we needed now for a perfectly balanced meal was some heat and the ‘green curry of ocean trout with baby corn wild ginger & Thai basil’ provided just that. Portions were generous without being ridiculous and the rice was fresh, steaming and wonderfully fragrant. Dessert consists of competent and well presented ice creams and sorbets.

A very appropriate wine list with a large selection by the glass impresses, and the cocktail list is superb, no doubt a spill-over from the hip Jimmy Liks bar next door, which is cool, laid-back and a place to rest and enjoy. A small bar snacks menu makes this option even more attractive as it is generally a lot easier to find an empty spot at the bar than at the communal tables next door.

Jimmy Liks is a really cool place to eat if you’re young and energetic and don’t mind waiting while the kitchen catches up with the orders and the service staff gets its act together. For the more sedate diners the fact that you can’t book and the general hustle and bustle might be a bit of a challenge.

Score: 6/10

For more information or bookings:

Jimmy Liks

188 Victoria Street

Potts Point NSW 2011

Tel.: 02 8354 1400