Industrie Restaurant & Bar

By Franz Scheurer

Is it a bustling CBD restaurant, a French bistro, a noisy fine diner, a members only club or maybe a pumping bar? It tries to be it all, however…

The long and narrow room is quite attractive at lunch when the thumping of the bass and the drunken antics of the ‘night people’ in the upstairs, unscreened bar can’t intrude. The food sounds French (it ought to as the menu items are all in French with an English explanation and they add the tag line ‘South of France’ to the restaurant’s name) and, although the chef over delivers, the food doesn’t really work in this environment. The floor staff is willing but mostly inexperienced, unpolished and perhaps a little nervous.

Rene Ortiz runs the kitchen and he’s good. He’s an innovative cook, with a secure enough palate and well enough honed kitchen craft to risk going out on a limb, with the inevitable result of occasionally falling off the perch. His French bistro fare is substantial, well prepared and presents well. His degustation, should you try it, is a little try-hard, overworked and fussy, nevertheless we enjoyed some of the eclectic combinations and daring use of produce and spices. Renee deserves a much more upmarket restaurant with more polished floor staff and more comfortable ambience to really show off what he can do. Alas an unyielding Immigration Department is sending him back to New York this coming December.

If you find yourself at Industrie then try the ‘Joues de “Wagyu” Braisées’, (despite the price of $40), a five-hour braise of Wagyu beef cheeks, served with seared scallops, braised turnip and cavolo nero, a gelatinous, deeply flavoured and dense rendition of an old-fashioned theme.

The wine list is French, focused and well priced. If you’re into the bar scene there is no doubt some attraction in annoying the diners below and if you’re into a retro-club experience you might enjoy the bright green, red chandeliered members-only Emerald Room, complete with appropriately dressed staff…

It all seems a little too far from the South of France for this reviewer.

Score: 5.5/10

For more information or bookings:

Industrie Restaurant & Bar

107 Pitt Street

Sydney NSW 2000

Tel.: 02 9221 8001