By Franz Scheurer
High above the breaking surf overlooking famous Bondi Beach, eating at Icebergs gives you the feeling you are in command of the elements. It’s an imposing view, matched by an imposing venue. Perfectly colour-matched aquas, greys and blues sparkle in the sunlight (or glow in the moonlight) streaming in through the large expanse of glass waterside. A very elegant but comfortable bar to the left of the entrance, a serene fine dining room to the right and colourful smokers tables on the verandah are oddly at odds with the crumpled jackets the waiters are wearing. Mind you, everyone in town is talking about them, so it can’t be altogether a bad thing.
The menu selection is quite small and changes often, which may be just as well, as you will find that you could probably order every dish. The food is beautifully presented and, although deceptively simple, packs a real punch. Many kitchens turn out food that shows off excellent craftsmanship, (NO, I won’t use “craftspersonship’ just to be PC and my spellchecker doesn’t recognise the word anyway) but few use their palate to this extent. It may just be a seared fillet of flathead on a bed of spinach, but once you taste it you won’t believe the flavours.
We particularly liked the ‘Tasmanian Black Mussels, Chorizo, Tomato, White Wine and Parsley’, perfectly cooked, plump and juicy mussels with a terrific and spicy chorizo. A serving of ‘Spaghettini Putanesca with Olives and Poor Man’s Parmesan’ perfectly al dente, full of flavour with a hint of chilli and easily the best Putanesca I’ve tasted anywhere in a restaurant. A ‘Warm Salad of Ocean Trout’ charmed with its lightness and the wonderful baby lamb’s ear leaves. The ‘Seared Rock Flathead, Creamed Spinach and Sicilian Salad’ looks almost too good to eat but is simply superb, the Sicilian salad with pine nuts and raisins a nice touch. The wood fired charcoal grill is fuelled with Malee Root Coal and the ‘Charcoal Grilled Mandalong Lamb Rack, Potato Galette, Meredith Feta, Smashed Peas & Broad Beans’ is full of smoky, caramelised flavours. Presented a little on the medium side it nevertheless just melts on your tongue. A side dish of ‘Green Beans with Butter and Parsley’ proves that there are now three restaurants in Sydney who can cook beans to my satisfaction.
Desserts are very good, too. Beware of the lemon sorbet, it is very sour, I loved the chocolate sorbet (that’s a first). A ‘Orange and Mascarpone Torta with a Passionfruit and Orange Sauce combines textures and bitter and sweet very successfully and the ‘Almond Milk Pannacotta with Pedro Ximenez, Prunes and Amaretti’ is so wobbly it actually fell apart when served.
The wine list is a work of art. Priced very aggressively it caters for the wine buff and the label drinker. Whatever I thought of in wine style, I found on the list, congratulations for a job extremely well done. Service is friendly, very professional and efficient. The only criticism I have is that the fragrance worn by one of the waiters was so strong that after the couple of times he brought something to our table it took a few minutes for the scent to disappear. This does neither the superb food nor the exquisite wines justice.
Score: 8.5/10
For more information or bookings:
Icebergs
1, Notts Ave, Bondi Beach
Tel.: 02 9365 9000