Hanuman
– Darwin
By Franz Scheurer
Jimmy Shu was born in Sri Lanka of Chinese origin, with a passion for good food and a dream of the perfect restaurant. Shu came to Australia as an immigrant in 1974 and working around the clock he eventually opened the ‘Isthmus of Kra’ and ‘Monsoon’ restaurants in Melbourne and the first ever sushi-train restaurant in Kuala Lumpur. Shu is a keen fisherman and the search for the elusive wild barramundi brought him to Darwin, where he discovered a good network of producers of Asian vegetables and fruit. He was so impressed he sold all his interests in Melbourne and Malaysia and in March 1992 launched Hanuman Darwin.
Shu’s believes in quality and freshness and the dishes at Hanuman in Darwin reflect Shu’s inability to compromise.
The restaurant in Darwin is spacious, modern and funky. A statue of Hanuman (a Hindu deity) overlooks the floor and coloured light illuminate the serving area and bar. Large tables are placed near the door for patrons having a drink and waiting to be seated and the tables are generously spaced and the chairs comfortable. The noise level, despite the hard surfaces and modern décor is reasonable and a conversation across the table is not a problem.
The food reflects Shu’s love for Thai, Nonya and Tamil flavours and he combines them ingeniously. Some dishes are the same as in Hanuman Alice Springs, and the trumpet mushrooms, topped with minced prawns and pork served in a large terracotta snail dish are outstanding and you simply must try the okra and the kang kong (water spinach) dishes. I love the fact that the Roti Channai is made fresh and ‘fluffed up’ before it’s served and the Indian bread (naan) is spiced with onions, which gives it an appealing texture.
The wine list is exemplary. I have no idea how Shu manages to obtain such a variety of good wines in such pristine quality in Darwin, which really is a long way from any wine area. I counted 30 wines by the glass, a good selection of boutique beers and spirits, more than 60 wines and a great selection of cognacs and ports.
It’s a credit to Shu that he succeeds here, offering something challenging and out of the ordinary in areas where tastes are often more conservative.
Score: 7/10
For more information or bookings:
Hanuman Darwin
Holiday Inn Esplanade
93 Mitchell Street
Darwin NT
Tel.: (08) 8941 3500