By Franz Scheurer
The café culture is slowly but surely catching up north of the Harbour Bridge. Suddenly chairs and tables are sprawling onto pavements everywhere from Chatswood to Kirribilli.
Garfish fits in perfectly with more tables and chairs outside than inside, opening for breakfast, lunch and dinner with morning and afternoon tea in between. Belgian waffles, ice creams, great coffee and a mean buttermilk pannacotta with cherry compote might tempt you for a mid-work break and fish and seafood is what they do best for lunch and dinner.
Garfish’s point of difference is the flexibility of their blackboard menu. Whatever variety of fish is freshest on the day is written up in the first column of the huge blackboard, the suggested method(s) of cooking in the second and the choice of accompaniment in the third. Let me give you an example: Skate can be grilled or pan-fried and the beurre noisette would make a great accompaniment. Ocean Trout can be grilled or steamed, Bar Cod grilled or roasted. Eggplant caviar would work well with the Bar Cod and lentils, mushroom and herbed yoghurt make for a terrific match with the Ocean Trout. If all of this is confusing you then the knowledgeable and friendly staff is happy to help you out.
These guys can cook seafood! Take the perfectly seared, crispy skins, fabulously fresh, never overworked fare and add simple, clean but effective plating and you have a feast for all your senses. Portions are generous and value for money is excellent.
Try the ‘oysters antipasto, prepared in three styles, which consists of freshly shucked natural oysters (with a slice of lemon), oyster shooters Bloody Mary style and crisp, deep-fried oysters with a very moreish Wasabi mayonnaise. We liked the grilled ocean trout with the lentils, mushrooms and herbed yoghurt dressing and adored the bar cod with homemade tartare sauce. The ‘crisp green salad with honey and mustard dressing’ turns out to be a great collection of baby leaves and, although quite sweet, is a joy to eat.
Garfish also has a simple take-away menu, with fish and chips, fish and chips and salad and salt & chilli squid and chips. Again, value for money is excellent.
Garfish is licensed and offers a good selection of fish-friendly wines, with more than ten wines offered by the glass. Service is quick, efficient, attentive and friendly. My only criticism is that no one thought of wiping the tables after we finished our main course. The generously sized cloth napkins did the trick, though. The village atmosphere makes for relaxed and enjoyable dining and when you leave you know you have eaten something that not only tasted great but also is good for you. Can’t do better than that!
Score: 7/10
For more information or bookings:
Garfish
2/21 Broughton Street
Kirribilli NSW 2061
Tel.: 02 9922 4322