By Franz Scheurer
Overlooking the beautiful city of Perth, Fraser’s Restaurant in Kings Park has established a solid reputation for good food and good service with glorious views over the last 8 years under the patronage of Chris Taylor. What used to be a pure mass production function centre and tourist destination has become the place in Perth to take visitors who appreciate fine dining and with talent like Chris Taylor, Brad Ford and Marc Haynes at the stoves this is not surprising.
As you enter, one floor above the restaurant from the back of the building, you are greeted by a spectacular set of sweeping stairs leading you down into the main dining area. There’s a function room to the right and the restaurant to the left.
The semi circular construction of the dining area takes maximum advantage of the sweeping 180° views with the colourful, illuminated trees being the focus point. The colours inside are subdued and warm, mainly wood interspersed with wrought iron work. The look is modern, reinforced by the sparse tableware and lack of tablecloths. They do, however, trust you with your own pepper mill! The chairs, unfortunately, were designed by one of these impossible thin trendy people who never have to spend a couple of hours in a chair far too narrow for a decent size bum.
The menu changes daily, according to availability of produce, and is a great read. There is a South East Asian influence, but due to geographical proximity to Indonesia, quite different to the Thai, Vietnamese or Malay slant we get in Sydney. The wine list, although physically hard to handle, is very comprehensive with a lot of very rare and aged wines, all at astonishingly affordable prices.
We start with “fraser’s ‘three tastes’ mussel peperonata, eggplant & caper cake, salmon tartare”. Three little morsels, plated beautifully, they work very well as far as contrasting flavours are concerned but the cayenne heat in the tartare is palate numbing and overpowering. The “seared fremantle scallops with shaved cucumber & fried oyster, black vinegar dressing” a visual feast with great depth of flavour. The oyster, especially, absolutely wonderful. A dish of “white bait served in a phanang curry sauce” superb and the “white rocks veal and veal bacon served on potato mash” succulent, soft, meaty and salty and terrific in its simplicity. For mains we select the “panfried pink snapper fillet on pearl barley & porcini risotto; nut brown butter” and the “fried marron in cumin salt with green mango mescut”. The snapper is good, as is the risotto. I personally find the porcini aroma a bit too strong. I’m guessing that the kitchen is using flavoured oil instead of dried mushrooms. The marron, however, is the star of the night. Absobloodylutely wonderful! A “panna cotta with strawberries and a sabayon shot” and a “crème brulée” round off the evening. The crème brûlée, terrific, the panna cotta, far too hard to be of any interest.
The service is attentive, knowledgable and friendly. Fraser’s is a thoroughly enjoyable dining experience and as they are open for breakfast, lunch and dinner every day you can enjoy the view and the food any time you feel like it. My only criticism would be attention to small details, the eagerness of the staff to “sell up” and the lack of complementary bread. Oh, and please make sure that the wine you serve is the same vintage as on your wine list or advise the customer first.
Score: 7/10
For more information or bookings:
Fraser’s
Kings Park
West Perth WA 6005
Tel.: 08 9481 7100