Flying Fish

By Franz Scheurer

When Michael McCann and his Dreamtime Australia Design company came up with the design for the Pumphouse Hotel and Mu Shu Restaurant we all thought that this was brilliant work. It doesn’t however compare with the sheer genius of Flying Fish. Restricted by a Heritage Listing, helped by a prime position and a glorious view of Sydney’s working harbour, Michael morphed the old Jones Bay Wharf site into a world-destination fit-out. Preserving the feel, texture and materials of the old wharf, incorporating the old, dark timber slatted ironwood walls, floors and massive overhead steel trusses, Flying Fish soars high above the design-tide of anything even remotely like it in Australia. Dark, foreboding, monumentally-anchored ground levels meet airy, lofty mezzanines with impossibly high ceilings; strong colours meet pastels; rustic meets high-tech and perfect tableware and sparkling glassware are aided by masterfully controlled light levels from the out-there lighting design by Pam Morris Design.

There are two light features; one called ‘Reef Spawn’ and the other, fittingly, ‘Flying Fish’. Reef Spawn, suspended high in the lofty atrium, consists of 270 hand-cast resin globes, each seasoned with Australian oyster shell and opal dust and measuring 5m x 4m x 2m. The second installation consists of 12 sculptured light fittings in warm red, orange and gold colours, vaguely resembling fish swimming or flying in the oceans of the air, high above the private dining room table, contrasting with the dark timber and the feature wine wall.

An outdoor bar is located on the western side of the wharf, making the most of the sunset over the Parramatta River. The Raw Bar showcasing fresh oysters, seasonal crustaceans and also featuring a large tank with live Tasmanian crayfish, green lip abalone and snow or mud crabs on the northern side and a large open kitchen to the south with the pastry kitchen located upstairs. Dining areas are downstairs and upstairs, with a well-stocked bar on the upstairs level. Peter Kuruvita, chef and co-owner, runs a tight ship in the kitchen, Michael Pickering looks after the floor and Donna Freeman is your very capable sommelier, with a love of rosés. General Manager, Peter Sandas seems to be everywhere at once.

Valet parking is available and the Flying Fish boat is available for valet service to and from the restaurant. Two private dining rooms cater for private functions, one seating up to 20 the other with a capacity of 12.

Now this place is worth a visit simply for the location, the architecture, the fit-out and the ‘wow-factor’ but it’s the food and the service that impressed me on this first visit and will make me want to come back.

The menu is seafood biased and Peter Kuruvita and his staff certainly know how to prepare it. Start with an interesting and delicious ‘Raw Bar Seafood Tapas Selection’ or the sublime ‘Yellow Fin Tuna with Sweet Crackling Pork and Ruby Grapefruit’, unless you just can’t resist the ‘Squid Ink Linguini with Blue Swimmer Crab, Shallots, Chilli and Garlic’. Mind you, how could you possibly ignore the ‘Tartlet of Seared White Scallops with Braised Oxtail and Red Radish'? (Maybe you have to be exceptionally hungry or bring some friends that are willing to share).

For mains I recommend the ‘Crispy Skin, Free Range Aylesbury Duck with Brinjal Pickle and Cumin Sauce’ or the mild, but very aromatic ‘Sri Lankan Snapper Curry with Basmati Rice and Condiments’. Less ‘fishy’ customers are catered for with the ‘Char-grilled Black Angus Sirloin with Summer Mushrooms and South Australian Horseradish’. Superb quality meat, cooked to your liking.

For desserts try the ‘Bittersweet Chocolate Tart with Honey Scented Mascarpone and Roasted Figs’, or the ‘Hazelnut Soufflé with Burnt Orange Ice Cream’ or simply feast on a selection of cheeses.

The wine list is extensive and intelligently put together and prices are very affordable. Wines that I see in the $30 to $40 retail range are still around the same price here. Same value for money is applicable for the food, with the Seafood Degustation (min. 2 people) at $95 per person. Entrées range from $23 to $25 and mains from $35 to $37.

Service is very friendly, informed and this ‘nothing is too much trouble’ attitude, combined with an engaging smile makes you feel like you’re the only customer that matters.

Score: 7.5/10

For more information or bookings:

Flying Fish

Pier 21, Lower Deck

19021 Pirrama Road, Pyrmont

Tel.: 02 9518 6677