Flower Drum

Our first impressions of the restaurant awarded just about every accolade possible, where we’d been unable to book a table less than 3 months in advance, was of a long, high-ceilinged dining room in shades of sienna, deep red and teal. Chinese screens divide the room into discreet sections and the generous spacing between tables allows for groups both large and small to enjoy themselves without encroaching on their neighbours. Beautifully appointed tables, and the theatre of watching the staff resetting tables and always appearing at the right moment to help serve a dish, set the scene. Host Gilbert Lau is every where at once, making both regulars and first-timers feel equally comfortable.

But the food is why we’re here! Forget the menu at first, and discuss the day’s specials with your knowledgeable waiter. He may recommend King George Whiting, flown in from South Australia, fried in a light batter (with a scattering of green onions through it) and served with separate accompaniments of spicy salt and lemon juice. Meltingly tender inside the deliciously crisp thin batter. Or for a more local treat: Murray Cod (available whole for larger parties, but the lone diners and couples are not forgotten, as fillets are also available). This fish is caught in the local Murray River and is served here simply steamed with ginger and shallots and a little steamed rice, this simple treatment allowing the pure flavours of the perfectly fresh fish to shine through.

The staff go out of their way to accommodate couples and small groups, serving smaller portions of regular dishes, so that as many delicacies as possible can be tried. This policy allowed us to also sample San Choy Bow of Quail (delicious with its crisp fried shards of taro noodles through the moist, aromatic quail meat mixture); Chicken War Thip (made especially light by the chopping, rather than mincing of the meat) served with a red vinegar and ginger dipping sauce; Peking Duck with a smoky Hoi Sin sauce and fleshy slices of duck; and BBQ beef with gai lan, a spicy, gelatinous Szechuan sauce and Szechuan noodles fragrant with sesame oil and green chilli. We finished the meal with oolong tea (as recommended by our waiter, in whom, by now, we had perfect faith) and delicate little shortbread biscuits with almonds. I recommend you book your next meal before you leave, so that it won’t be any more than 3 months before you’re back again!

Lunch Monday - Saturday noon - 3pm, Dinner Daily 6 - 10pm

17 Market Lane, Melbourne VIC3000 Phn: 61 3 9662 3655