By Franz Scheurer
The Establishment Hotel in the Sydney CBD is in a beautifully restored old building, offering 33 guest rooms and 2 penthouses, a very happening, jumping Establishment Nightclub on two underground levels, the ‘Tank Stream Bar’ at street level, the fine dining restaurant “est.” on level one, various function rooms and a ball room on levels two and three and the exotic ‘Hemesphere’ lounge bar and the superb Sushi-e restaurant on level four.
You have to be brave and forge a path through the crowds spilling out from the street-level bars, past the bouncers, where you are escorted upstairs, using mainly hand signals to make yourself understood over the cacophony of sound. As soon as you step out of the lift, you feel as if you have magically been transported into another world.
“est.” is quiet elegance. Pressed lead ceilings towering overhead, Corinthian columns giving the whole room a somewhat ‘ancient’ look, floor to ceiling windows, fabulous chandeliers, muted, off-white colours, silk wall panels, polished floorboards and a dark-chocolate carpet perfectly complement the abundance of smartly dressed wait staff. We are escorted to our perfectly set table and, after ordering an aperitif, we sit back and let the majestic surroundings soothe and relax us.
The cocktail list is good, offering a substantial selection of cocktails and aperitifs. My only criticism, and it is purely selfish, I would like to see a selection of Pastis, not just Pernod and there is no Islay Single Malt on the list.
The menu is classic Peter Doyle. It’s a great and appetising read, seafood biased and you know you can order every dish with supreme confidence. Peter gets it right. We started with a ‘Jerusalem Artichoke Soup with diced Foie Gras, Hazelnut Oil’, a ‘Tranche of Duck Foie Gras with Poached Bosc Pear, Toasted Brioche’, the ‘Ravioli of Prawns, Young Leeks and Coriander, Lemongrass Vinaigrette’ and from the separate vegetarian menu the ‘Ravioli with Mascarpone and Fresh Herbs’. We were particularly impressed to be able to taste the Foie Gras for a change. So many chefs feel that they must use Foie Gras but don’t actually like it and proceed to hide it in whichever way they see fit. Not here, glorious, fatty, rich, smooth, satisfying duck liver! The soup, seasonally very appropriate, was both warmingly comforting and smoothly elegant. Both ravioli used terrific pasta, with the prawn one winning out on texture. Middle of the range bottles of Chablis and Brouilly proved to be in perfect harmony with the food.
For mains we selected the ‘Steamed Snapper Fillet, Sand Crab and Scampi, Caviar Emulsion’, the ‘Crisp Skin John Dory Fillet and Grilled White Scallop, Jacqueline Sauce’ from the seafood offerings and the ‘Grilled Fillet of Beef, Ragout of Mushrooms and Herbs’, the ‘Pan Roasted Lamb Rib-eye and braised Lamb Shank, Winter Vegetables, Horseradish Jus’ and finally the ‘Spice Crusted Saddle of Venison, Roasted Chestnuts and Butternut Puree, Poivrade Jus’. As usual all of the dishes were superbly plated and a feast for the eyes. Both seafood dishes were simply superb. The beef well aged and tender, the lamb perfectly cooked and succulent and the venison an absolute dream. This is very elegant food, showing finesse, sharply honed technique and a superlative understanding of flavour marriages.
And the desserts are just as terrific. We managed to share a ‘Selection of Local and Imported Cheeses’, a ‘Latte Cotto with Queensland Strawberries, vanilla – spice syrup’, a dense ‘Valrhona Ganache Cream, Cocoa Nib Wafer, Meyer Lemon Sorbet’, a ‘Vanilla - Yoghurt Panna Cotta with Lime Jelly, Tequila and Lime Sorbet’ and the ‘Poached Bosc Pear and Passionfruit, Brown Sugar and Macadamia Praline Ice Cream. I don’t know where we put it, but somehow we managed.
Service is excellent and wine service is terrific. With Stuart Halliday (ex MG Garage) looking after the wine list you can be assured of a fabulous selection of wines right across the price spectrum.
All in all eating at est. is a wonderful experience. It is superb without demanding total and constant attention from the diner. This is a place to relax, enjoy and be pampered. Try it, you’ll love it!
Score: 9/10
For more information or bookings:
Restaurant est.
Level 1, Establishment
252 George Street
Sydney 2000
Tel.: 02 9240 3010