By
Franz Scheurer
Courtney’s
in Parramatta is proof that the culinary desert does not start a few minutes
outside the CBD. Tucked away in the heart of Parramatta, this is a place well
worth travelling to and right up there with the big boys in many ways.
The
brasserie is a quiet, warmly furnished, modern and uncluttered space. The walls
are painted deep terracotta and the whole place feels good. Noise levels are
low and the tables are far enough apart to ensure a private conversation.
Courtney’s
menu is modern Australian with Italian and Asian touches. Upon reading the menu
you’ll know that if the food is half as good as it sounds then you’ll be in for
a treat. And it is much better than that.
They
also have a separate Vegetarian Menu.
You
can chose between something as simple as fish and chips or any of the more
complex items described below:
The
Crispy Fried Quail Breast with Yellow Bean Pancake, Asian Mushrooms and Soy
Butter is a perfect combination of earthy flavours and well-balanced sweetness
and acidity. The Sauteed King Prawn with Goat’s Cheese and Muscatel Tortellini
and Nut Butter echoes Neil Perry’s Rockpool dish and the Sauteed Duck Liver
with Pistachio Pate, Grilled Pear and Walnut Dressing is a perfect combination
of flavours and textures with the Pistachio Pate being the ingredient to stand
out. I’d love to see this as a separate menu choice, simply served with some
toast and a slice of lemon! The preparation of this dish does however remind us
where we are, as the duck livers are cooked through and not automatically
served just seared. So if you are accustomed to, and prefer, blue livers,
please inform the staff and you will get them sauteed to your liking. The Aromatic Mushroom Risotto with Truffle
Oil and Shaved Reggiano Parmesan round off a perfect meal. Presentation on all
dishes is good, although still stuck in the “stacking age”. Ingredients are
fresh, dishes are very well balanced and a joy to eat. The amuse gueule, a
slice of Nori Maki, lacks flavour and imagination but the superb Tomato and Basil
Bruschetta makes up for it. Deserts are just as good. Inventive, solidly
crafted and well presented. The Pear and Sweet Bundaberg Mulberries tart with
Kind Island Double Cream taking the number one spot on the winner’s dais.
As
I was rather thirsty when we first arrived, I ordered a beer. It arrived in a
chilled glass, at the perfect temperature, reminding me of a way to serve beer
that the trendy places in the city seem to have forgotten. By far, one of the
best beers I have had in many years.
The
selection of wines by the glass, 1 bubbly, 5 whites and 2 reds are well chosen
and affordable.
The
wine list is something to drool over. This is one serious wine list. One of the
best I have seen, regardless of location, without a doubt.
A
fabulous collection of Australian wines, listed by varieties, littered with
absolute gems. Boutique wines, rarities, mainstream greats and a small
selection of French and Italian wines are available to wet your whistle. And if
this does not convince you then you have the chance of selecting a wine from 15
different Rockford or 17 different Henschke treasures. Prices reflect the fact that these wines
have not been purchased at a premium price recently, but accumulated over the last
15 years or so and marked up very modestly.
Value
for money is fantastic if you compare it to the big boys in the city. It might
be considered an expensive suburban restaurant but you are getting everything
you do in the thick of town, without the journey and the hype.
I
whole-heartedly recommend Courtney’s to any discerning gourmet and I certainly
will be back.
Score:
6/10
For
more information and bookings:
Courtney’s
Brasserie
Phillip
Street Cottages
70
Phillip Street
Parramatta NSW 2150
Tel.:
02 9635 3288