Cottage Point Inn

By Franz Scheurer

It does not get much more idyllic than Cottage Point, and it’s amazing how many Sydneysiders have no idea that such a beautiful spot exists, right within their city. A short drive from Terrey Hills, Cottage Point is at the end of the National Park and Cottage Point Inn is a short walk down a well-maintained path. Cottage Point Inn Restaurant, set on the water at the junction of Cowan Waters and Coal & Candle Creek, was originally the Cottage Point boatshed and general store. The building was converted to a restaurant in the 1970’s and has been operating ever since. A large veranda offers the most exiting view and dining al fresco is the way to go, although there is a terrific inside dining room, sheltered from the weather. Landing jetties cater for boats and an occasional seaplane and although this is the perfect lunch spot, I can highly recommend getting there about 1 hour before sunset and watching the changing colours as the sun goes down.

They also have a couple of apartments where you can stay the night (or longer) and enjoy the isolation and serenity. The Friday and Saturday night packages include a 3-course meal at the restaurant (and at the moment they are open on Sunday night, a real bonus).

The food is mod-Oz and seasonal and it’s non-confronting and timeless. You can bring your granny here or your grand son and you have a more than even chance that they will like it. The ‘Pan Fried Hawkesbury River Squid with a Leek & Squid Ink Risotto’ ($27.50) looks sensational and tastes sublime. It’s easily their best dish and a perfect way to start the meal. The squid is cut into miniscule pieces and the squid ink risotto has a fair bite. The spinach holds it all together and adds a lovely, slippery texture. The ‘Deboned Quail with Spinach & Duck Liver Stuffing, Tomato Cous Cous, Tarragon Mayo, Boiled Quail Egg’ ($29.00) shows off a competent quail with a terrific stuffing if you like liver, but may be a little strong in flavour if you don’t. A dish of ‘Roast Lamb Loin, Beetroot, Baby Sorrel, Braised Lamb Tongue, Mint Jus’ ($41.50) consists of excellent lamb, cooked perfectly rare and rested, with tiny cubes of earthy beetroot. The lamb’s tongue is too stylized for my liking and I would rather have a chunk than a few very thin slices. ‘Pumpkin & Amaretti Ravioli with Aged Pedro Ximenez Vinegar and Chervil Beurre Noisette’ is a stack of pumpkin and amaretto biscuit raviolo and it is less successful as the butter is not dark enough and the amount of butter is very small. The raviolo are too sweet with the sweetness increased due to their size. Chef really needs to eat this classic dish either overseas or prepared by someone local who gets it right, e.g. Stefano Manfredi or Lucio Galetto. Cher’s take on ‘Dauphine Potatoes’ ($9.50) is excellent and I suggest you order a dish just for yourself. Desserts are excellent with the ‘Yellow Peach Soufflé with Vanilla Anglaise, Coconut and Rum Ice Cream’ ($23.50) just being eclipsed by the ‘Chocolate Ganache & Salted Caramel Tart, Chocolate Macaroon, Honeycomb Ice Cream’ ($21.50). A degustation menu is available (minimum of two) at $140 per person with an extra $65 for matching wines, per person.

The wine list is good, with a few gems and a reasonable selection of wines by the glass.

The setting and the view is what make this place special. If you live in Sydney you really should go and spend a lunch or a dinner there but as the roads are real ‘drivers’ roads’ it might be a good idea to take advantage of their accommodation so that you can have a glass or two and drive home the next morning.

Score: 6.5/10

For more information or bookings:

Cottage Point Inn

2 Anderson Place

Cottage Point NSW 2084

Ph: +612 9456 1011

Fax: +612 9456 1497

Their Web Site: http://www.cottagepointinn.com.au/