Restaurant Review by Franz Scheurer
There is no doubt that Simon Goh is a clever operator. His penchant for reading his audience and giving them what they want is legendary and the crowd-pleaser Chinta Ria restaurant at Cockle Bay is living proof. This time around, however, Simon Goh build a restaurant foremost for himself. A home away from home and a place that reminds him of the simpler village life in Malaysia, whilst serving the best Malaysian food in Sydney.
He built a self-contained Malaysian village, stocked it with his own belongings and artworks, hired the (in my opinion) best Malaysian chef in town, John Poh (ex Kuali fame) and pampers his guests (he treats them all as friends) in the small, exclusive and new Mood for love.
You’d never guess you were on the 6th floor of a Westfield. Once you’re through that heavy entrance door a new, enchanting world greets you. Simon Goh went to great lengths to make this ‘His’. He took the original idea of the movie ‘Mood for love’, hired a talented film director, Bernie Zelvis, and reshot the basic scenes with a typical ‘Goh twist’ using gorgeous music to set the mood. The concept for the restaurant is all Goh and the interior designer on the project was Elizabeth Wong from Juicy Design. It’s obvious that a lot of thought (and fun) went into this and everything, from the naming of the cocktails and mocktails to the names of the food relates to the main theme ‘Mood for love’. Here you can sit at the ‘Nipple Bar’ (that’s where you have a ‘nip’ of something), drink a ‘Lick Me’ and order some ‘Seduction Rolls’. It’s fun, it’s irreverent and it’s a place I want to be in.
Keeping with the theme of the original movie, all menus and drinks lists are in an old-fashioned (but easy to read) typewriter font and it’s a ‘screen play by Simon Goh’ with different ‘Scenes’ for every aspect. The menu is extensive and the wine list appropriate. What immediately strikes me is the incredible value for money. Where else in this town can you have a 10-course degustation menu for $55 p/p (minimum of 2 people)? It’s crazy!
Now to the main reason why we are here: FOOD!
We started with John Poh’s ‘Otak O Tak’, a Spanish mackerel mousse, the ‘Seduction Roll’, minced chicken with 5 spice seasoning, wrapped in beancurd skin and fried, an inimitable ‘Chai Tow Koay’, a pan-fried radish cake that is so moreish I could have it again and again. The mixed ‘Satay’, chicken and beef, served with the traditional peanut sauce immediately pulled my mind and tastebuds back to streetfood I had in Malaysia. A dish of ‘Hug Me Honey’, again the play on words fitting with the ‘Mood for love’, turned out to be pan-fried tenderloin beef with honey and pepper chilli sauce. The only challenging dish was ‘Quack! Quack! Kiam Chye’, a braised duck dish with preserved vegetables: it’s sour and hot, with really good preserved vegetables, but I personally did not take to the braised, wet duck, which was presented skin on. We tried the ‘Pearly Butter Prawns’ and if you love prawns this is a must have! Prawn cutlets in butter milk, soft and crunchy at the same time and incredibly moreish. The dish of the night, though, was John Poh’s Crab Curry, a whole Queensland mud crab cooked with chef’s special curry sauce. This was always John Poh’s special dish and I am just stoked to be able to finally eat this again in Sydney. It’s served with the best roti canai in town and it’s ‘finger licking good’. A side of ‘Monk’s Mushrooms’, a reminder of a great musician, was a dish of market fresh mushrooms cooked in ginger sauce with a topping of deep-fried, crisp Enoki mushrooms.
For desserts we tried the ‘Kueh Rolled Me Green’, kueh dadar, coconut palm sugar rolls wrapped in a light pandan crepe, the ‘On Me On Me All Day’, ondeh ondeh, pandan balls filled with palm sugar syrup rolled in shredded cocounut, the ‘Pandan Sago’ and the incredible ‘Durian Panna Cotta’, a sensory delight for hard-core durian lovers.
The food at Chinta Ria… Mood for love is Sydney’s best Malaysian fare by a long shot (I know this is a big statement, nevertheless this is my opinion). The service is attentive and friendly and the atmosphere is charming, welcoming and exotic. They also have a private area for 10 guests and although secluded and private, it totally benefits from the whole ‘Mood for love’ ambience.
This is my kind of restaurant, serving food I want to eat. Go while you can still get in!
Would I go again? On my way now!
Would I recommend it to my friends: absolutely
Noise: 70db
Best dish: John Poh’s crab with roti
Score: 8/10
For more information or bookings:
Chinta Ria… Mood for love
Level 6, Shop 6009
Westfield
188 Pitt Street
Sydney
Tel.: 02 8072 8888