Buzo

By Franz Scheurer

Buzo is popular and rightly so; this Sydney inner-east eatery takes good food seriously and great hospitality as a must. Buzo occupies a two-storey building in Woollahra just of the top of Oxford Street; a lovely mix of old and new and it's always full of happy customers. Although the tables are close to each other you don't feel a lack of privacy and due to the sound-dampening on the ceiling it's not too noisy, either. The atmosphere is convivial, friendly and comfortable and it would be impossible to stay in a bad mood for long. It's the perfect place to unwind.

The food at Buzo is anchored in Italy but it always surprises with that little, quirky twist. Have a bowl of marinated olives, fennel and lemon while you're making up your mind what to eat. The menu changes daily taking advantage of seasonal offerings, although some dishes, like the inimitable 'Vincisgrassi', a porcini, mushroom, prosciutto, truffle & Parmigiano lasagne has been on the menu every time I've been there and although filling, it's sublime. You might start with a 'House smoked eel, parsley & Parmigiano frittata' or opt for the wonderfully tender and juicy 'Deep fried chicken wings' with chilli, garlic, parsley, fennel pollen and aged balsamico. Don't forget their 'Potato gnocchi, lamb & aged marsala ragu, pecorino' is a wonderful dish, light yet earthy. I was impressed with a tiny, stuffed King George Whiting that was totally, and successfully deboned. For mains you may opt for the 'Slow cooked pork shoulder, crushed broad beans, peas, pecorino & mint' or try the 'Sourdough & salt cod crusted bass grouper, tomato, saffron & fresh herbs'.

Sweets at Buzo are a must. Try my favourite, the 'Torte di Verona' with mascarpone, pandoro, blueberry & almond trifle. It's worth every sin in the book! A good selection of cheeses round off the food.

The wine list is a work of art. You will find something to suit your taste and budget and if you're into rare and interesting wines it will take you hours to read this list properly. One of these gems is the 2009 Belluard 'Le Feu' Gringet, from the Mont Blanc area of Savoy in France. Gringet is a native grape variety that used to be prolific in the area but alas was replaced with 'more commercial' varieties in the last 50 years. Belluard is the only producer left to make a 100% Gringet and there are only 12 acres remaining in the world today. If you are looking for a terrific red you might want to consider the 2003 Oddero Bussia Barolo from Piedmont, Italy.

Food and drink service are flawless. Knowledgeable, affable and never intrusive, this staff really knows that front of house is as important as the food. They do the food justice.

A good list of aperitifs, digestives and spirits completes the picture of a lovely place to be in. This is hospitality at its best.

Score: 8/10

Best dish: Vincisgrassi

Would I go again: Yes, please

Noise: 80 db

For more information and bookings:

Buzo Trattoria

Tel.: +61 293281600

Fax: +61 293281667

3 Jersey Road

Woollahra NSW 2025