By Franz Scheurer
Petaluma’s Bridgewater Mill restaurant is situated in Bridgewater in the Adelaide Hills. A particularly tranquil, flower-rich and peaceful spot its majestic, slowly rotating water wheel and the gurgling noises of the nearby brook set the pace and frame of mind.
Once you walk into the refurbished and cleverly renovated old building you find yourself in the public tasting area, fronting the restaurant. The restaurant spreads over two rooms and a large verandah. Above cellar door is a podium level with a grand piano and space for musicians and this room has two levels of balconies with tables and chairs for patrons to enjoy the music on the days entertainment is scheduled.
Colours are subdued with whitewashed adobe-style walls and lots of dark wood making the linen covered tables the heroes. Table and glassware is excellent and the chairs and banquettes are comfortable.
The menu is short and appetising. A ‘Double baked Gruyère soufflé with roast capsicum, eggplant and pesto’ is every bit as good as it looks. Light, savoury and a perfect match with a Bridgewater Mill Sauvignon Blanc or a Stoniers Reserve Pinot. Another entrée, the ‘Spearlobster tail with crustacean mousseline & truffle cream with shellfish essence under pastry crust’ sounded overworked but as we hadn’t eaten Spearlobster, also known as Champagne Lobster, mainly found in the tropical waters off Darwin, we ordered it anyway. It turned out to be a terrific dish. The tail halves were presented with the crustacean mousseline, which was shaped like a pannacotta, the truffle essence beautifully handled and barely noticeable with a tiny ramekin, served on the side, containing the shellfish essence covered by a pastry lid. Clean, strong flavours, beautifully clarified, aromas cleverly contained by the pastry, this was a serious contender for the Australian Gourmet Pages Dish of the Month. For mains we tried the ‘Kangaroo Island chicken and grilled squid with crispy fish and peanut salad, lime and chilli dressing’ which could have been lifted straight out of David Thompson’s repertoire, a study of balance between hot, sweet, salty and sour with a fabulously succulent chicken. Presentation a bit old fashioned with a bit more altitude than attitude. A ‘Beef fillet with oxtail pie, foie gras & grainy mustard sauce’ was perfectly cooked ‘blue’ as ordered and superb quality meat. The shredded oxtail meat, served in a mini pie, the perfect textural contrast to the soft fillet. It was, however, not served with a grainy mustard sauce but with a wine (and probably port) reduction, akin to a Sauce Bordelaise. I wouldn’t be surprised if this magnificent sauce was based on a quantity of beef blood but alas, my enquiries went unanswered. Needless to say it was heavenly rich, full of layered flavours with a depth I will remember for a very long time.
Desserts, in contrast, were light and fruit forward. A ‘Lemon crème brûlée with lemon parfait and toasted orange fingers’ tart, refreshing and beautifully presented and a ‘Strawberry vacherin’ showing off perfect marinated strawberries with a light and very aromatic strawberry sorbet perched on top of a fluffy knob of meringue.
Complimentary amuse gueule and petits fours were absolutely first class and the size just right. Although the Chef Le Tu Thai has changed direction with his food, he certainly hasn’t lost his magic touch.
Service was very attentive, friendly and informed. For ‘on the go’ Sydneysiders the gap between ordering and entrée service was unacceptably long, but might suit the much more leisurely pace of the local patrons.
This is a very nice restaurant with gorgeous food, great service in an immensely relaxing atmosphere. Well worth a visit all they way from Sydney!
Score: 8.5/10
For more information or bookings:
Bridgewater Mill
Mt Barker Road
Bridgewater SA 5155
Tel.: 08 8339 3422