By Franz Scheurer
Brass Razoo in Willoughby is an interesting suburban restaurant. A small and narrow dining room opens up to a kitchen at the end with a white old-fashioned sink, complete with white s-bend downpipe as the focal point. A curious blend of old fittings and new, steely appliances disguises the remarkably quiet kitchen team, or are they quiet only in comparison with the noisy guests? Thankfully the restaurant is carpeted and swallows a lot of the geniality and bonhomie created by the cheerful, friendly service and competent food.
‘Crisp Fried King Prawns wrapped in Nori with Baba Ganouj and Fried Leek’ is a stayer on the entrée menu and the ‘Chinese Style Red Braised Pork Hock’ a welcome comfort-food main course with real depth of flavour. Not all the dishes work, however. The mushrooms and the tortellini clash in the “Potato and Goat’s cheese Tortellini with Pan Fried Mushrooms, Pine Nuts and Parmesan” and the anchovy butter totally overpowers the perfectly cooked, char-grilled rib eye steak. The ‘Roast Veal Sweetbreads with Chorizo Sausage, Onion Jam and Balsamic Vinegar” texturally fantastic, could be an even better dish with less chorizo, as it masks the taste of the sweetbreads too much.
Desserts deserve unreserved applause. Every single one is above average and well presented. The ‘Chocolate Marquise with Mocha Anglaise and Caramel Ice Cream’ as rich as you can get it and the ‘Crème Brûlée with Shortbread’ dense and creamy with a perfectly brittle top and a very short shortbread. The wine list is small, both physically and metaphorically speaking. Wines are appropriately chosen to match the food and the list includes some good back vintages.
A good suburban restaurant that has the potential to be great.
Score: 6/10
For more information or bookings:
Brass Razoo
533 Willoughby Road
Willoughby
Tel.: 02 9958 5734