bloodwood restaurant

By Franz Scheurer

March 2010

When three ex Claude’s chefs band together to open a new restaurant then the result is sheer magic. Claire Van Vuuren, Mitchell Grady and Jo Ward opened Bloodwood in Newtown, essentially a funky neighbourhood restaurant, with no pretence at being a fine diner but succeeding at serving terrific tapas-style shared plates, backed up by some interesting beverages. The food is not just good but superb and the wine list, although fun for the initiated wine buff, might be a little difficult for the label drinker. Some excellent spirits supplements the wines and interesting beers and the whole package simply works.

Young, local designer Matt Woods managed to achieve a hip industrial look without spending millions. Exposed raw bricks are highlighted by yellow pipes, recycled wood and a collection of old doors on the ceiling hold your attention and the open kitchen is at once functional as it is good theatre.

We ordered quite a few dishes, starting with ‘polenta chips and gorgonzola dipping sauce’ ($9) a dish so moreish you have to remind yourself that you have many more dishes coming. A plate of ‘crispy chicken wings’ with yoghurt rémoulade ($12) is finger-licking good and the ‘fried bean curd roll’ ($15) made with crab, pork and shitake, rolled in bean-curd skin is taken straight out of Cheong Liew’s repertoire. Jo Ward was Cheong Liew’s number one in the kitchen at the Grange in Adelaide for years. One of the highlights was the ‘saltcod brandade’ ($15) brandade pan-fried with a crisp bottom served on ox heart tomato salad with Pedro Ximénez vinegar. This dish stands out texturally and convinces with a contrast of dark and bright flavours. The next two dishes ‘duck sausage’ ($28) with crispy duck breast and plum sauce and ‘lamb kibbeh’ ($28) a stylised take on classic Kibbeh with the crunchy burghul crust and a moist interior due to the centre Merguez sausage, served with eggplant, kale and bull horn capsicum sauce were both sensational. The duck sausage every bit as good as Searle’s at Vulcan's in Blackheath and the kibbeh so moreish I almost ordered another serve. We barely had room for dessert, so we shared a ‘bloowood trifle’ ($12) with pomegranate jelly and it was simply heavenly.

Service was friendly, efficient and unobtrusive. I was impressed to find Buffalo Trace whiskey on the list and loved the Monteith Black Beer from Auckland.

Opening hours are Monday to Thursday from 5pm to late, Friday and Saturday from midday to late and Sunday from midday to 10pm. Closed on Tuesdays

Noise: 70db average

Did I like it: a resounding YES

Would I go back: absolutely

Score: 7.5/10

For more information:

bloodwood restaurant

416 King Street

Newtown

Tel.: 02 9557 7699

Email: bloodwood restaurant bloodwood2010@hotmail.com