Bistrode

By Franz Scheurer

On Bistrode’s business card it says ‘Food for people’, which at first glance, seems an ambiguous statement, but I do get the real meaning when I realise that everyone in our party, from semi-vegetarian to offal aficionado, finds lots of dishes they want to eat.

Jane and Jeremy Strode’s new restaurant on the old Dragonfly site is tiny, comfortable like an old shoe, with a semi-open kitchen on one side and a covered courtyard at the back. Lots of wood, warm tones and real bistro food make you forget your daily worries as efficient and knowledgeable service set you at ease.

An entrée of ‘Black Sausage, Quail Egg & Bacon Salad’ showcases an exquisite black pudding with a salad of well-tossed mixed leaves and the ‘Silverbeet & Gruyere Tart’ and the ‘Asparagus Soup & Chervil’ have our semi-vegetarian in raptures. The ‘Calamari, Roast Garlic Mayonnaise & Rocket’ presents well and is perfectly cooked. The mains are every bit as good as the entrées. The ‘Blue Eye, Organic Chick Peas & Bone Marrow’ is correctly named and a wholesome, down-to-Earth dish with finesse. The ‘Wagyu Corned Beef, White Sauce & Baby Carrots’ a comfort dish not at all like mother used to make it. A couple of side dishes reveal soft, unctuous ‘Bakers Potatoes’ and slightly undercooked, boring ‘Green Beans’. Desserts shine in their simplicity and focused flavours with the ‘Orange Burnt Cream & Orange Salad’ edging ahead of the ‘Maple Syrup Tart & Crème Fraiche Sorbet’.

An appropriate wine list rounds off the solid dining experience and value for money is excellent. If you like hearty but refined bistro food then I suggest you go and eat at Bistrode while you can still get in. Once the word gets out you will have to stand in line.

Score: 7.5/10

For more information or bookings:

Bistrode

478 Bourke Street

Surry Hills

Tel.: 02 9380 7333