By Franz Scheurer (Feb 2007)
Bistro Vue is a place I want to eat at, often. Its cosy, old-fashioned European guise might be slightly chintzy to some, but I find it exceedingly soothing. The rough tables complement the exposed ceiling beams and, although recently established, the woodwork throughout the restaurant looks like it’s been in place for eons. I love the plush burgundy velvet and brocade banquettes and chairs and find that the whole décor comes together beautifully.
The staff is friendly, attentive and knowledgeable and nothing seems to be too much trouble. The menu and wine list are a terrific read; if you aren’t salivating long before the food hits the table, there’s something wrong with you.
Portions are generous and, unlike many bistros, a lot of thought has been put into presentation. The ‘Pissaladière’ ($12), perfect for nibbling while you read the rest of the menu, is a work of art; the flaky pastry topped with slivers of anchovy, soft black olives and caramelised onion certainly gets the juices flowing. The ‘Steak Tartare’ ($16) is hand-cut and wonderfully seasoned (though I feel for the apprentice who has the task of shelling the very soft-boiled quail eggs). If you like a good roast chook then order the ‘Poulet Rôti’ ($29 per person), a dish for two that could easily feed three. A confit leg of Kangaroo Island chicken and the roast breast with persillade under the skin, makes for a juicy, umami-laden protein fix (perfect with the hand-cut ‘pommes frites’ cooked in goose fat). We loved the ‘Schnapper Bourguignon’ ($28) a snapper fillet served in a deep, dense red wine sauce that never overpowered the fish and worked just perfectly with a glass of Burgundy.
Whatever you order, make sure you leave space for the ‘Tarte tatin au poires’ ($24 for two, though once again it could easily serve three) which is a caramelised symphony of textures and tastes that rates as one of the most memorable desserts I’ve eaten. And the ‘Soufflé chocolat’ ($12) is pretty impressive as well.
To sum up: I love Bistro Vue but I am glad it’s not in Sydney as I would spend far too much time there. On the other hand it’s a real pity that we don’t have anything like it here.
Score: 8/10
For more information and bookings:
Bistro Vue
430 Little Collins Street
Melbourne VIC 3000
Tel.: 03 9691 3888