By Franz Scheurer – February 2007
Tucked around the corner from its actual Military Rd address, this quaint little bistro could almost fool you into thinking that you’re at one of the many local bistros in the French countryside. Faded yellow walls, a curtain covering the alcove that leads to the washrooms, waitstaff that know what a pastis is, and a small courtyard with a terrific faux-wall cut-out mural depicting Parisian rooftops, all help to set a relaxed scene. If this doesn’t get your attention, then the wine list with some very quaffable, and affordable, French wines will. The concise menu mirrors the simple but tasty food you would expect in a bistro.
We nibble on a ‘Pissaladière’, a lovely, salty topping of anchovies and black olives on a very short pastry, as we make up our minds what to order. We start with the ‘Soufflé au fromage de chêvre’ ($15) and ‘La pomme au boudin noir’ ($17). The soufflé is served with cherry tomatoes and almonds, the almonds adding texture to an otherwise rather pale and bouncy soufflé that is under-seasoned. The black pudding served in a caramelised apple presents well and the mustard dressing’s acid lifts the whole dish. However the caul-fat that holds the black pudding together is too thick and doesn’t melt completely, leaving a couple of unsightly, slippery blobs that could certainly turn a sensitive diner off the dish. For mains we order the ‘Magret de canard aigre-doux’, ($28) seared duck breast on warm duck rillettes, served with caramelised onions and port braised turnips, with a peppery cumquat purée. This is an excellent dish showing off a perfectly pink, well-rested duck, and the flavour of the rillettes lift it from good to excellent. The other main course, the ‘Tortellini de courgettes’, ($20) is terrific house-made pasta filled with creamy zucchini, on a confit of eggplant, tomato & summer courgettes with turmeric reduction. This is an elegant and contemporary dish and, although pasta based, unmistakably French in its flavour profile.
A bottle of ‘Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits 2004’ ($40) complements the dishes and really is terrific value for money.
For dessert we try the daily special, a very French, very dense ‘Bread and Butter Pudding’, served with a sauce Anglaise, a comfort dish with just the right amount of sweetness.
Service is personable and attentive, though timing, especially between entrée and main course, could be improved. All in all, this is a good neighbourhood bistro that, with a bit of attention to detail, could be great.
Score: 6/10
For more information and bookings:
Bistro Paris
Shop 9, 81-91 Military Road,
(Corner of Ben Boyd Road)
Neutral Bay
Phone: (02) 9953 5669
Web: http://www.bistroparis.com.au/home.htm
Email: bistroparis@optusnet.com.au