By Franz Scheurer
No one would question Tony Bilson’s talent and ability in the kitchen and few would doubt his charm and easy manner to work the floor, however after observing some of Tony’s short-lived restaurant ventures many would ask: Does he still have it?
The newly opened Bilson’s inside the Radisson Plaza Hotel looks transformed from the former Celsius. The room is friendlier, much warmer and looks a lot more like a European dining room. The blue back wall covered with black and white artworks adds depth to the room. When you enter the restaurant you walk past a display of old Armagnac, Calvados and Cognac to be greeted by a wonderful cheese table. This immediately sets the tone for the whole meal.
The menu is Tony Bilson at his best. Every dish sounds appetising. There are no specials to confuse you but the menu changes regularly with the changes in season and availability of the freshest produce. A ‘Spanner Crab with Avocado, Almond Oil and a Tomato Sorbet’ is both a taste sensation and a visually stimulating dish. ‘Grilled Scallops with Cêpes and a Tart of Mousse of Foie Gras’ shows off beautifully plump and sweet scallops contrasting with the earthy flavours of the mushrooms and complemented by the smooth mousse. Another great dish! The ‘Tomatoes Stuffed with Snails and Periwinkles’ although quite tasty, was less of a success. The snails were undercooked and tough and the periwinkles gritty, however the ‘Grilled Fillet of John Dory with Sea Urchin and Tapenade’ more than made up for it. The star of the night was ‘Tripe Braised with Veal Shank, Ham Shank and Pigs Trotter in a Basil Consommé’, served at the table from a large casserole. It was full of depth and flavour, texturally superb, presented in a pot-au-feu style. I’d go back for this dish alone, oh, and the bread, which was superb! We finished our meal with a ‘Blood Orange Soufflé’ which didn’t taste of anything much and, being a pure egg-white soufflé was a bit too airy for my taste.
The wine list is comprehensive with a good selection of lesser-known but excellent French wines. Value for money overall is excellent. Service is mostly what you would expect but can do with a little more polish. Mind you, it’s early days!
To answer the question: YES, Tony certainly still has it!
Score: 7.5/10
For more information or bookings:
Bilson’s Restaurant
27 O’Connell Street
Sydney
Tel.: 02 8214 0496